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CHINESE RULES
Five Timeless Lessons for Succeeding in China
Tim Clissold


Copyright

William Collins

An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd

1 London Bridge Street

London SE1 9GF

WilliamCollinsBooks.com

This eBook edition first published in Great Britain by William Collins in 2014

Copyright © Tim Clissold 2014

Cover images © Shutterstock

Tim Clissold asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins.

Source ISBN: 9780007590285

Ebook Edition © August 2014 ISBN: 9780007590261

Version: 2016-03-02

Praise for Mr China

‘An instant classic’ Time

‘A wonderful read … one might not expect such poetry from a banker’ New York Times

‘It’s got big money, charismatic capitalists, Communist apparatchiks, crime and mysterious disappearances … [but] it’s not just a novel – it’s true’ Telegraph

‘No business history can ever have been such an enjoyable read … any visiting businessman should be obliged to buy a copy’ Chris Patten, the last Governor of Hong Kong

Dedication


‘harmony’

for Lorraine,

for my brothers Oliver and Max,

and for the memory of Lizzie Hicks

To fight and win a hundred battles is not supreme excellence; the greatest General avoids war and overcomes his adversary without fighting.


THIRD SECTION, SUN TZU’S THE ART OF WAR, c. SIXTH CENTURY BC

CONTENTS

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Praise for Mr China

Dedication

A Chinese Chop

1. Even a Beast Like a Thousand-Pound Ox Must Lower Its Head to Drink

2. A Tree May Grow to a Thousand Feet, but the Leaves Still Return to Their Roots

3. When the Horse Has Reached the Edge of the Cliff, It’s Too Late to Draw on the Reins

4. Up in the Sky There Is Paradise, but Down on the Earth We Have Hangzhou

5. The First Chinese Rule: How Can We Go So Far as to Change the Regulations of the Celestial Empire – Which are Over a Hundred Years Old – at the Request of One Man – of You, O King!?

6. Sacrifice the Plum Tree in Order to Save the Peach

7. The Second Chinese Rule: The Long-Divided Shall Unite; The Long-United Shall Divide

8. Learn from the Past; Seek Truth from Facts

9. The Flowers on a Liverwort May be as Small as a Grain of Rice, but They Still Want to Blossom Like a Peony

10. The Third Chinese Rule: The Art of War Is of Vital Importance for the State; It Is a Matter of Life and Death; the Road to Safety or Ruin That Should on No Account Be Neglected

11. When Master Jiang Hangs Out His Hook, It’s the Willing Fish That Gets Caught

12. Kill with Borrowed Knife

13. The Fourth Chinese Rule: Cross the River by Feeling for the Stones

14. Who Could Say It Was Gain or Loss, When the Old Man Lost His Horse?

15. The Fifth and Final Rule: Know Yourself and Know the Other and You’ll Survive a Hundred Battles

Footnote

Bibliography

Author’s Note

About the Author

Also by Tim Clissold

About the Publisher


A Chinese Chop

1

EVEN A BEAST LIKE A THOUSAND-POUND OX MUST LOWER ITS HEAD TO DRINK
Traditional peasant saying: Even the most capable must sometimes ask for help.

I almost didn’t answer the call. I had been gazing absentmindedly out at the hills and the purple splash of heather as the train sped south towards York. But the carriage was almost empty so I took out the phone and clicked on the button. A voice confirmed my name and asked abruptly if I could go to China. Glancing around me, I whispered, ‘I can’t really take a call right now. I’m in the quiet coach, you see.’

‘Well, you’d better call me back right away. Didn’t you get my messages?’ said the voice with a snort. And then the line cut out.

London was still a couple of hours away, so I waited a while as the stone towers on the Minster receded into the distance. The landscape levelled out around York and, farther south, a network of canals stretched out in straight lines towards the horizon; lock gates and brick guardhouses passed by the window. Along the old toll paths, the willows tossed about in the wind, casting long, rolling shadows in the late summer sun. I wandered down to the end of the car and, leaning against the doorway, clicked on the number. The voice that answered immediately launched into a story.

‘Okay, so we’ve got this deal in China,’ she said, ‘and we need your help urgently. There’s this big factory in Zhejiang – you’ve been to Zhejiang of course but maybe not to Quzhou.’

‘Er, yeah, I think I’ve been to Quzhou.’

Another snort. ‘I doubt it, this must be a different Quzhou. It’s miles from anywhere, stuck right out in the middle of the outback, a couple of six-packs from Hangzhou.’

‘Yeah, that’s the one,’ I said, noticing an Australian accent.

‘Really?’ She paused for a moment, but quickly resumed the story. ‘Anyway,’ she said, ‘we signed up to buy truckloads of carbon from a chemical factory down there and now it looks like the whole thing’s gone belly-up. We found some lawyers in Beijing who said that you’d help us.’

‘Lawyers?’ I asked.

‘Haven’t they briefed you yet?’ asked the voice. ‘They promised they’d call you. Now the Chinese partner wants to change everything.’ The voice groaned, apparently addressing itself. ‘This is the biggest deal that’s ever been done by private investors,’ she said, shooting her attention back to me. ‘We’ve got fifteen million tons of carbon hanging by a thread, and now they want to change the whole deal!’

‘Carbon?’ I said, glancing sideways through the window and deciding it was time to end the call. ‘Look, I’m really sorry, but I don’t know anything about the chemical industry. You must have got the wrong lawyers.’

‘Not that type of carbon.’

‘Catalysts or something is it? Look, fifteen million tons of carbon sounds like a hell of a lot to be moving around in China.’

‘What?’

‘You got transport organized?’ I asked. ‘The railways can be a nightmare,’ I said. ‘You know they’ve still got steam engines running out there?’

‘Not that kind of carbon!’ said the voice again, shifting markedly upward in pitch. ‘Credits! Not the black stuff!’ There was a sigh and a mumbled comment I didn’t quite catch above the clatter of the tracks.

‘Oh,’ I said. ‘Right.’

‘Let’s just back up here for a minute,’ she said. ‘We have a deal to buy carbon credits from a chemical factory in Quzhou. They make stuff used in fridges and air conditioners, right?’

‘Oh, yeah? So where does the carbon come in then?’ I continued sceptically. This really wasn’t making much sense. The connection cut out and the carriage shook violently as the train roared through a tunnel. She called me back immediately.

‘Wait! The chemical plant is chucking out greenhouse gases big-time, so we’re helping them put in new equipment, incinerators that’ll burn up the gas. That way, we get credits that we can sell on in Europe. Buyers are desperate for this stuff!’

‘Uh-huh …,’ I said, concluding that I was dealing with a nut. ‘Look, I’m sure this is all really interesting, but I’m quite tied up at the moment. Perhaps you could—’

‘No, listen,’ she interrupted. ‘This is deadly serious.’

She went on to explain that the project was the largest greenhouse gas reduction project ever attempted by private investors. ‘We just have to make this work,’ she said. ‘If we get it right, it could kick-start the whole market.’ The Chinese factory had agreed to put in equipment that burns up gases from the production line, which they’d been venting out into the air. ‘It’s really bad stuff,’ she said, ‘millions of tons of gases just blowing up into the sky and all they have to do is put in incinerators to burn it up.’

‘So why don’t they just put them in anyway then?’ I asked.

‘There’s nowhere in China that makes the equipment; they have to import it from Japan and they don’t have the cash. So we agree to buy the credits, and the factory shows the contract to the bank to get loans to buy the equipment. That’s the whole point of the CDM, right?’

‘Er … maybe,’ I said vaguely.

‘CDM. It’s part of the Kyoto Protocol for reducing greenhouse gases – Kyoto, right?’ she said doubtfully. ‘The factory puts in the equipment, burns up the gas, and the UN gives them carbon credits that we can sell on in Europe. Both sides make money, we cut down on greenhouse gases, and everybody’s happy.’

‘Sounds a bit far-fetched to me. You been doing this long, have you?’ I added suspiciously.

‘Well, yes actually,’ she said. ‘I did five years at the World Bank. We did deals all over the world … Indonesia, Nepal, India, China, Venezuela. Six months ago I moved to London and joined a carbon outfit here.’

The phone cut out again.

‘Sorry, I didn’t quite catch that,’ I said once we were reconnected.

‘Yeah, I was just saying that I joined a carbon outfit in London but at first no one else here wanted to do this deal – can you imagine it? The biggest carbon deal on the planet and they got all nervy and started asking all sorts of questions.’ Another snort. ‘Anyway, I went right out on a limb and got the Chinese to sign up to sell us the carbon. When I took the letter back to London, man, they were crazy as a snake. There wasn’t enough money in the first fund so we went out and raised a syndicate. Wang’s just called from China and wants to change the deal. The syndicate is wobbling and it looks like the whole lot’s about to go down the chute. Anyway I don’t have time for all this. Cut to the point; when can you come out to China?’

‘Er …’

‘We need to get out there as quickly as possible. I’ve got a flight booked for this evening.’

‘This evening!? But I don’t even get into London till after five …’

‘The flight’s not till eight, so you’ve got plenty of time to get across town. The guys in Beijing said you’d help us …’

‘I don’t even have my passport with me,’ I explained. ‘It’s up in Yorkshire.’

‘We’ll send a taxi to fetch it.’

‘Are you crazy? That’s a couple of hundred miles! And anyway, I don’t have any business clothes with me.’

‘Buy some at the airport.’

‘But I don’t know anything about carbon or Kyoto or any of that stuff …’

‘Read up on it on the plane,’ she said.

‘And my visa’s just expired,’ I said.

She seemed momentarily stumped.

‘We’ll get you one in the morning. I’ve got plenty of mates at the embassy. Hang on a moment …’

She put her hand over the mouthpiece and there were a few muffled comments before she came back to me.

‘Okay, we’ve got seats out tomorrow,’ she said. ‘We’re on the four o’clock flight out to Hong Kong.’

‘But …’

‘I’ll meet you in the business lounge.’

‘I …’

‘And by the way,’ she said, ‘the name’s Mina.’

2

A TREE MAY GROW TO A THOUSAND FEET, BUT THE LEAVES STILL RETURN TO THEIR ROOTS
‘Wanderers eventually return to their native soil.’

—The Story of a Marital Fate to Awaken the World, an unattributed Qing Dynasty novel

Behind the Forbidden City stands a hill, which – legend has it – hides a vast reserve of coal for use in times of siege. Each morning, just before dawn, people gather in the park below the hill for exercises. A group of women practise swordplay with their arms outstretched and blades held upright, turning on one heel. An older man shambles past with a battered canvas bag, half running, half walking, towards his usual spot among the flowerpots by the dragon-claw scholar-trees. There he fills a bucket with water, dips in a long brush, and silently practises calligraphy, writing with long, flowing brushstrokes in the dust on the paving stones at his feet. All around, hidden among the bushes, the exercisers stretch and bend and shout to greet the dawn.

I often looked out from the hill as the first rays of sunlight struck the corner watchtowers on the Forbidden City below. In the 1980s it was easy to imagine that Beijing had hardly changed since imperial times. Around the palace complex with its maze of pavilions and passageways, the sloping roofs of a thousand courtyard houses stretched out flat towards the horizon. In the late springtime, a thin layer of mist would trap the smell of fresh leaves in the damp air hanging in the alleyways. Towards the end of the summer, in the main Party compound beside the Forbidden City, lotus flowers poked through the greenery that floated about on the lakes; crooked pathways ran over little stone bridges between the pavilions along the banks. Back then, there was something about Beijing that felt simple and content; the city ran in a daily routine where everything had its own allotted place and a clear role in life. There was a pattern to the day in the old hutong alleyways, a rhythm to the hours and seasons, a closeness to nature that felt unusual in the midst of such a vast city. Up on the hill, it seemed as if the odd honk of a passing Liberation Truck was the only reminder of the turning of the centuries. But when I looked more closely through the haze towards the west, I could pick out the vague and distant outline of factories standing out against the mountainsides. Smokestacks and towers of twisted pipework rose up at the foot of the hills. A trail of smoke drifted from an iron foundry. In the other direction, heaps of coal and ash marked the site of the city’s main power station and electrical towers marched off in straight lines towards the south. These were all the early signs of modernization and in those days, I never gave it a thought. But if you were to go back to that hill and look out over the great city today, you would find a very different sight.

I first arrived in Asia in the eighties after I was posted to Hong Kong from London. I’d never been there before, and from the moment I stepped from the plane and through the wall of dense wet heat, I knew I was in a different world. Giant Chinese characters shone in neon lights from the tops of ten-storey buildings. Wherever I looked, there were people hammering in tiny factories, unloading from boats, bargaining in alleyways. Office workers sat crammed into dumpling restaurants between stacks of bamboo steamers. The streets reeked of dried seafood and Chinese medicine and the air was filled with the honking of taxis and clattering of trams. I had no idea that such a concentration of human life could exist in such a state of perpetual motion. The intensity of life in Hong Kong was something completely new to me. Almost immediately, I felt drawn to China.

The following year, I quit Hong Kong and found a place at a university in Beijing to learn Mandarin. It was the year after the tanks had rumbled onto Tiananmen Square and there were almost no other foreigners around. At first the students there sought me out to practise their English, ignoring the bizarre rules about ‘spiritual pollution’ that were meant to keep us apart. But their English was so good that I felt awkward speaking Mandarin with them, and so I started spending more time away from the university, in places where people knew nothing of foreigners. After a while, I could manage simple conversations and slowly grew to recognize the Chinese characters on the shop signs and the notices around me. I found my way more easily through the tangled network of old hutong alleyways that spread around the old imperial buildings at the centre of the city. I often went back to Coal Hill to find the calligraphy man practising his characters with his water brush on the dusty paving. He would write out characters on the stones at his feet while I tried to catch the meaning of the flowing brushstrokes before they began to fade and disappear.

My student days were short-lived and I soon joined an investment firm run by a Wall Street veteran who was building the first large foreign direct investment business in China. Over the period of a few years, he’d raised $400 million and pumped it into twenty factories across China, ending up with nearly twenty-five thousand employees.

The speed of China’s development in those years was difficult to take in; around the Yangtse and Pearl River deltas, shiny new cities rose up out of marshlands in just a few months. Little fishing villages became gigantic container ports, hydroelectric dams choked mighty rivers, and four-lane superhighways were blasted through rock faces. For more than a decade, China existed in a state of supreme upheaval. The government fought to maintain order as it embarked on a programme of massive reform, removing the props of the command economy while billions in foreign investment poured into the coastal provinces. As China awoke from a century of slumber, deep within the interior 150 million workers rose up out of the country villages like a tidal wave and swirled towards the coast.

Many of the factories we had invested in were in remote regions of China, where central authority was weaker. ‘The mountains are high and the emperor is far away,’ goes the old provincial saying about the distant authorities in Beijing. The country is too big to be controlled from a single centre, and unless events catch the attention of Beijing, local interests can often take over. We became embroiled in unequal disputes in far-flung places. Land was transferred out of our joint ventures to prop up loans for other local businesses. Bank transfers and capital investments were made without approval, cash was stuffed into safes in back offices with no records, and contracts were routinely ignored. For a long time, it looked as though we might lose the investment.

It took years to sort out the mess, and during that time, I travelled to almost every province in China. We had strikes and lockouts, sieges and court cases, and had been pursued across the country by officials with writs and freezing orders. But gradually, over a period of several years, the relationships with our Chinese partners smoothed out and the businesses started making money. We got better control of the assets and sales started to grow on the back of the China boom. Most of the investment was saved, together with the jobs of the twenty-five thousand workers, but after nearly seven years in the combat zone of Chinese investment, I was exhausted. I needed some time out to think.

Several years earlier, I’d married my old college classmate – ou duan si lian, as the Chinese would say of a reconnected love-affair: ‘lotus roots may snap but their threads stay attached.’ When Lorraine came to live in Beijing, life’s possibilities multiplied overnight. She had arrived with two small boys – my stepsons Max, aged five, and Christian, who was three – followed a year or so later by our children, Sam and Honor. Weekends were taken up by trips out to remoter parts of the Great Wall, scrambling up the Ming Tombs with a couple of dogs or splashing about on Kunming Lake at the Summer Palace. The foreign community was small in those days and there was still a sense of adventure about a posting to Beijing.

Around the time I was thinking about moving on from the investment business, Lorraine came home one day with news that she had found an old courtyard home for rent about a mile or so east of Tiananmen Square. Hidden in a backstreet, it had been part of the former residence of a Qing Dynasty official; I didn’t need much persuading to move back to the old alleyways.

The courtyard had a large south-facing hall behind a row of red lacquered columns. It stood on a stone terrace looking out onto a garden where an old wisteria climbed up into the carved woodwork under the eaves. The alleyway outside was named after the old imperial grain warehouses. Farther down, clouds of steam rose from a line of shabby street restaurants. At lunchtime, they were packed with labourers from the provinces. Oil drums stuffed with red-hot coals lined the street; cooks in white hats threw handfuls of Sichuan peppercorns into their woks as they shouted out for customers. At the end of the street, there was an old Buddhist temple with big bronze studs on the doorways and glazed black tiles on the rooftops. Inside, a drum tower stood next to a huge cherry tree that burst into blossom in springtime. During festivals, there were concerts in the temple and the air was filled with the smell of incense and the strange chanting of monks. For me, it felt completely natural to be back in the hutongs and connected to the old way of life. On our first night, as I sat in the courtyard with the children, a storm rolled across the city and chunks of ice fell down among torrents of warm water. But after the downpour, the skies quickly cleared and the familiar smell of stir-fry drifted over the wall from next door. The stars came out and, high above our heads, a kite tugged a long trail of candlelit lanterns across the sky, tiny red dots dancing about against a backdrop of darkening blue.

After we moved to the hutong, I took a few months off from work to try to make sense of what happened to the investment business. The prospect of losing so much money and the lessons learned in the fight to recover it had forced me to dismantle entirely my ideas about dealing with China. I had been made to rethink some of my most basic assumptions. One thing was for sure: if you stuck by Western rules, you were finished.

I’d learned my hardest lesson after we’d been hit by a fraud in the southern city of Zhuhai, which sits next to the old Portuguese colony of Macau, far away on China’s southern coast but not so far from Hong Kong. We’d invested about $8 million in a brake-pad factory down there but a few months after we wired in the money, the factory director went on a trip to the United States to attend a trade fair in Las Vegas – and he didn’t come back. We discovered subsequently that he had gone to Hong Kong with four letters of credit – like unbounceable cheques drawn against our account – with a face value of $5 million. There he exchanged them for cash and – carrying what the police described as ‘a large suitcase’, presumably containing the banknotes – he boarded a plane for America. That was the last that we heard of him. In the seat beside him on the way out was the deputy bank manager of the branch that had opened the letters of credit. It was obviously a scam.

Our response to the news had been catastrophic. When I tried to explain what had happened over the crackling phone lines to New York, there had been an instant, knee-jerk reaction. The directors there immediately ordered a highly sophisticated legal operation involving hordes of expensive lawyers all waving worldwide Mareva injunctions, which were aimed at freezing the bank’s assets on the basis that the branch officials must have known about the scam and that the bank was therefore liable. The case ended up in China’s Supreme Court and, after two years of pointless arguments, we lost. It was a disaster – I remembered bitterly that when the factory director had disappeared from Zhuhai, our cash was still in the account because the letters of credit had not yet been presented. One of our other Chinese factory directors had looked at me with a slightly puzzled expression and asked, ‘Why did you go to the court? You could have just transferred the cash out in small amounts without the bank noticing and when the documents arrived, they’d be left with the bill.’ We’d done the opposite; the board had metaphorically marched up to the city gates, announced a full frontal assault, and then assailed the bank with highly sophisticated legal weaponry that was completely useless for dealing with the actual problem. As soon as the bank realized what was going on, they took one look at the court papers, made a quick call to the local government, and froze all our accounts. We never recovered a cent.

Those seven years on the front lines of Chinese business taught me that foreigners had no way to impose their ideas on China from the outside; I’d learned the hard way that if you wanted to survive in China, it had to be on Chinese terms. I had been forced to think through new ideas as basic as how society, business and government could be organized and how to compete on foreign terrain. There seemed no option but to abandon some of the basic assumptions I’d brought with me from the West. I could see that China had its own modes of behaviour, its own conventions, and accepted ways of doing things that were different from our own. China’s way of working seemed difficult to pin down, but every country, every society has its own internal logic; it may not be obvious from the surface but I felt there must be some overarching rationale, some consistent narrative to how China worked. Perhaps it was something in my background that made me seek a more ordered explanation to the chaos I had found around me; perhaps it came from studying physics in university, where universal laws are used to explain diverse and seemingly unconnected observations. I found myself searching for an underpinning to the Chinese universe, reference points or clues to a larger framework that might help me navigate these foreign waters, something that might reveal how it all fitted together. China’s special logic was elusive and hard to define precisely, but I knew I’d never be satisfied if I didn’t at least make an effort to uncover it.

In the southwest of Beijing there is an area of winding alleyways around Tile Factory Street where, in the fifteenth century, ornate ceramic ornaments were fired in charcoal kilns for the rooftops of the great Ming Dynasty palaces. Three hundred years later, the area around the factory had grown into a cultural centre, where scholars, poets, and artists gathered to exchange ideas and practise calligraphy. Today the narrow streets are lined with shops piled to the roofbeams with books and scrolls; local painters come there to find paper, brushes, ink stones and seals. I often visited the bookshops, with their rickety staircases, dusty display cases, and the burnt, earthy smell of Chinese calligraphy ink. At the back of one of those bookshops, there was a room lined with battered bookcases devoted to Chinese history and ancient theories of war. I had heard about Sunzi, but had never really taken The Art of War too seriously; tales of battle plans from the sixth century BC had seemed too remote to be of much use in the modern age. But I found the shelves there lined with piles of cloth-bound books I had never heard of, like the Book of Qi and the Records of Tan Daoji. I discovered an enormous volume of historical records covering power struggles, plots, and intrigues stretching back well past the time of the European Dark Ages. At first I couldn’t understand the antiquated Chinese language, with its ancient, recondite characters, so I sought out translations, trying to put the Chinese and English together to look for the deeper meaning. I dipped into an old collection of battle plans called the Thirty-six Ruses. There I found set-piece strategies, with strange names like ‘The Beauty Trap’, ‘Take the Wood from Under a Cauldron’, and ‘Kill with Borrowed Knife’. Elsewhere, I found a Han Dynasty strategy that set out the ‘Five Baits for Enticing Foreigners’. I sensed an obliqueness in the approach that contrasted with the direct assault favoured by Westerners. I found more emphasis on timing and surprise, on harnessing external conditions rather than just relying on firepower, and on ways of deceiving a more powerful enemy. There were unexpected twists: in Sunzi’s world, the supreme general avoids war altogether and overcomes without fighting. ‘Overcomes without fighting,’ I thought. ‘What did that mean?’ I bought several of the books and found ideas that helped explain things that had happened at our factories. I was wondering whether they could all be collated into a more coherent pattern when I was suddenly contacted by some investors in Hong Kong.

At the turn of the millennium, as China prepared to join the World Trade Organization, the government realized that the banking system was crippled with uncollectible loans and they decided to do something about it. I found myself tempted by the idea of helping to clear up the mess, so I went to work for one of the big American investment banks that had just entered the new market for ‘distressed debt’ in China.

During the forty years of the planned economy, Chinese banks had given money to factories and work units under the central state plan rather than on the basis of commercial logic. Many of the borrowers had no hope – or even intention – of making repayments. The result was a mess of truly astronomical proportions, with about $700 billion worth of uncollectible debts – known as ‘nonperforming loans’ or ‘distressed debt’ – clogging up the banking system. Faced with the prospect of a complete financial meltdown, the Chinese government started restructuring the banks and selling off tranches of these nonperforming loans to foreign investors at reduced prices. The American bank had bought up several of these portfolios and I was hired to retrieve something from the wreckage.

Over the coming six months, I travelled across China visiting factories that owed amounts under these bad loans, often meeting with the local governments in charge of the area. Many of the loans had been in arrears for years and the relationship between the lender and borrower had broken down completely. Just having a new face to negotiate with often unlocked a knotty situation. At first I felt that the work could bring a lot of benefit to local communities: the factories could be released from their debts for a partial repayment; clearing out the backlog might open up the possibility of new loans; the restructuring assets could make them useful again; and management teams might get an infusion of new talent. But some of the cases were much murkier. I heard that one of the borrowers had been held under house arrest; at another, there’d been riots when a local bank had tried to seize machinery. After a while I became uneasy about the effect of some of the settlements on the local community or the individuals concerned.

During those months, as I worked in the plush offices at the bank during the day and returned to the hutong in the evening, I noticed the city beginning to change, gradually at first. When we moved into the courtyard, even though we were in the midst of an enormous city, we felt somehow connected to nature and aware of the turn of the seasons. In winter, it was so cold that the children sometimes wore coats in bed; by summertime, it was sweltering and flash thunderstorms flooded the courtyard, sending us retreating up the steps to listen to the rain splashing on the clay tiles above our heads. In the local vegetable markets, pots of pickled vegetables or white cabbage lined the stalls throughout the winter, and in the late summer, we’d find cut flowers, lotus root and ginger. But the changes around us gathered pace as the city began to modernize. I’d often notice that an old restaurant had vanished and a mobile phone outlet had appeared in its place, or that a corner shop had been demolished to make way for a wider road.

In the early days I hardly noticed, but the pace became more rapid. Suddenly a long line of shops had gone; then the whole side of a road would disappear. I heard rumours about an old woman in Xicheng District, on the west side of Beijing, who had chained herself to a tree inside her old courtyard as an official read out the eviction order. She’d lived there for sixty years and had nowhere else to go. Grabbing my bicycle, I rode over to see what was going on and found a sea of rubble with the odd solitary tree standing where the old courtyard gardens had been. Window frames and roofbeams lay scattered on the ground; broken saucepans and smashed pots sat among the heaps of shattered tiles.

Once Beijing won the hosting of the 2008 Summer Olympics, there was an inevitability to the fate of the old city. Twenty billion dollars had been set aside to upgrade the capital, and for several years large sections of it vanished behind the perimeter fences of construction sites. Huge areas of the ancient city disappeared forever. Miles of old alleyways and winding backstreets fell beneath the hammer. A hundred thousand workers poured in from the countryside and swarmed over the old buildings, uprooting ancient wisterias from courtyard houses and dumping them on the heaps of broken bricks outside. Ornate doorways were torn away; tiles were pulled from roofs. I sank into a kind of siege mentality and shut my mind to what was happening. All around, the air shook with the roar of bulldozers and I could feel the distant pounding of pile drivers through the ground beneath my feet. I heard that more areas of old hutongs in the north had disappeared, but I couldn’t bear to go and look. All around us, an ancient way of life was dismantled brick by brick.

One day, we came back to find that a character I had seen written inside a circle on hundreds of other courtyard walls was now painted on the wall of our own.


The character means ‘demolish’, ‘strike down’, ‘strip’, or ‘tear apart’. It was the only notice we had that the bulldozers were about to move in. At first I put up a fight; a famous author had owned the courtyard in the 1930s, but of course my argument that the old building should be preserved because of its historical value fell on deaf ears. Then I told them we’d refuse to move out. ‘Wo bu zou le!’ I said. I’m not going anywhere! But the old woman at the Street Committee just shrugged and squinted at me briefly before adjusting her glasses and turning back to her newspapers. ‘Hao ba! Xingqi san ting shui le!’ she said. Okay then! Wednesday the water will stop! So I sat in the courtyard as the workers climbed onto the roofs around me with their hammers and picks, and bits of old tile and plaster fell down onto the lawn beside my feet.

Nowadays, the view from the top of the hill behind the Forbidden City is often obscured by smog; the air of the Beijing summer is opaque. Down below, the traffic snarls and tempers fray. Cyclists clutch at their mouths and turn their faces away from the fumes. In my mind’s eye, I fly westward across the mountains, out towards the dusty orchards, the country villages, and the crumbling loess soil on the plains of central China. Beijing is a vantage point to survey all the desperate activity across China; inland, millions toil in search of a better life. Miners descend in black cages; workers hack at rock faces and dig tunnels for the next intercity highway. Engines roar and sirens scream; the rivers inland have run completely dry, their beds a mass of smashed rocks covered with thornbushes, and there are no trees. Dead fish float about in filmy water. Plagues of river rats ravage the crops, deserts devour the fields, and acid rain falls across the land.

On Beijing’s old foundations, a new metropolis of vast proportions has been thrown together in a few years. Glass spikes rise skyward and elevated highways dominate the landscape now. In a few small areas of Old Beijing, around the lakes and drum towers of the Ming Dynasty city, the government preserved the ancient courtyards, but they cower in the shadows of high-rise apartment blocks. The alleyways there are clogged with rickshaws full of shouting tourists. China has moved on as it prepares to take on its new role in the world. Beijing had become less foreign, less different, and consequently – for me – less interesting.

I had begun to feel doubts about whether I was doing the right thing at the bank. Besides, the children were growing up so quickly. I felt a growing sense of inevitability about a move back to England. But it was with a heavy heart the following summer, after nearly twenty years in China, that I called a shipping agent and we started the journey back.

We had found a place in a small rural village tucked in among the hills at the foot of the Yorkshire Dales. It was close to the place where I had grown up, and at first I enjoyed the familiar sight of the stone walls arching across the fields as they rolled up the dales, the grass clipped short by the sheep, the smell of bracken and heather. Lorraine seemed relieved to be back in the fresh air and countryside and quickly gathered a menagerie of animals around her. She stocked up the vegetable garden and left grain in the little dovecot. The children threw themselves into the outside life, racing in horse shows, falling out of trees, and galloping through the mud in the hills and in other people’s gardens. Three cats and an indeterminate number of horses joined the two dogs we brought back from China.

Stupidly, we chose an old house that was far too big for us and needed an enormous amount of work. The place was so infested with field mice that even the cats despaired; the window frames were rotten and after poking around in the cellar, we saw that part of the foundations were propped up with stacks of newspapers dating from the 1960s. I discovered a row of buckets in the attic for collecting the drips, and throughout the interminable damp of the first Yorkshire winter, the rain cascaded through the roof and ran down the walls, short-circuiting the electrical outlets and providing impressive blue sparks around the light switches. Downstairs, the coal fires barely took the frost off the carpets and the wind howled through the shutters. After nearly twenty years in China, it was tough to adapt to such a different life. I found it difficult to re-engage and fit in.

Over the following months, I took long walks in the countryside in the drizzle, musing about China and slipping about in the mud with the two dogs from Beijing. My mood recovered slightly with the onset of spring, when the banks along the country lanes were scattered with snowdrops and then daffodils. But I still found it difficult to reorient my thinking to the old English ways. How do you explain to one of the local farmers that if your dog strayed onto their land just to enjoy chasing the odd sheep, they would only respond to instructions in Mandarin? I’d often end up yelling at the dogs outside the village post office; they’d cock their heads and look at me in bemusement if I said ‘Sit!’ but were instantly responsive to ‘Zuo!’

Lorraine hardly fared any better as she tried to make new friends, and was regarded as eccentric by the locals. She had kept up her Chinese diet and once, when she went to buy eggs early one morning, the postmistress sniffed and asked – quite rudely, I thought – whether she’d had garlic for supper the night before. In fact, Lorraine ate a kind of Chinese boiled rice porridge for breakfast each day, flavoured with spring onions and spices. So she eyed the group of nosy customers who had gathered at the end of the wooden counter and said, ‘No, I just had raw onions for breakfast.’

In the early summer, the trees awoke and birds filled the hedgerows. On my daily run through the woods, I’d often pause by an old rickety stile and watch the wild deer jumping through the cornfields or the rabbits diving through the thickets. But my mind always flew back to the dusty skies and congested cities, the dry riverbeds threading across the plains, the persimmon orchards out by the Ming Tombs, and the ancient rice terraces on the hillsides where generations of farmers toiled in the squelching mud. I felt stranded at the opposite end of the earth, so I was in a restless, searching mood when I suddenly received that call in the quiet coach, asking me to go back to China.

3

WHEN THE HORSE HAS REACHED THE EDGE OF THE CLIFF, IT’S TOO LATE TO DRAW IN THE REINS;
When the Boat Has Reached the Midst of the Stream, It’s Too Late to Plug All the Holes

Traditional peasant saying

On the same day that I’d received the call from Mina, Rufus Winchester had driven his hybrid-electric car across Hyde Park towards Mayfair in the perfect summer sunshine. Tall, regimental, uptight, and buttoned down, this former British Army officer was an energetic and blustering serial entrepreneur who had survived a string of botched business start-ups. Things had never quite come right for Captain Winchester. But now, he thought to himself, we’re about to hit the big time.

His company, IHCF, had finished its first fund-raising and had signed up nearly €100 million from investors. Together with his partners, an assortment of earnest, well-meaning, and moneyed Englishmen, he had rented a large Georgian mansion in Mayfair as an office and set about hiring a team. Just like an Old Boys Club, the new headquarters had a ballroom on the first floor with high, corniced ceilings, but all the real work took place in cramped attic rooms where the juniors toiled behind computer screens hedging carbon credits in the City. Downstairs, the founders floated about between oak-panelled meeting rooms with the effortless self-confidence that comes from a good public school education. Excitement about carbon credits had just taken hold of the financial markets and IHCF’s fund-raising had been splashed across the front pages. Winchester took in a deep breath, pushed back against the steering wheel, and smiled. He was in the right place at the right time and he knew it.

Immediately after the first hundred million euros rolled in, IHCF had turned its attention to China. Winchester knew that over the past two decades, thousands of new businesses had sprouted up along the coast of China, and that, together with the old state-owned factories in the rustbelt cities of the north, they were cranking out greenhouse gases like there was no tomorrow. It was fertile ground for Winchester’s new firm and in a couple of months his team had found several big projects in China. By the summer, they’d initialled their first transaction. It was a landmark deal to buy a big tranche of carbon credits from a chemical factory in Quzhou, the biggest ever attempted by private investors. There wasn’t enough money in their first fund to cover the contract so they had to go out and find more. Eventually they managed to syndicate the deal with their chums in the City.

It had been three months of exhausting and stressful work, but they’d finally lined up investors. Deutsche Bank had agreed to underwrite the financing and they were ready to sign the contracts. It was a real coup; a big chunk of the first hundred million would be invested well ahead of schedule and the investors were happy. But much more exciting was that they had ‘circles’ around another €500 million from some big European pension funds to put into a second, much larger fund. ‘Just close that deal in Quzhou,’ Winchester thought to himself, ‘and the money’ll come rolling in. If we get those Dutch pension funds signed up, we could end up with a billion and we’ll be the largest carbon fund on the planet!’ It looked as though the last pieces were sliding perfectly into place just at the right time. But then they got a message from Quzhou. Chief Engineer Wang had called unexpectedly from the chemical factory and said that he wanted to change some key terms of the deal.

When they heard about Wang’s last-minute demands, the investors in the syndicate started to waver. It seemed as though the entire financing structure would collapse. The millions that Winchester had lined up from the Dutch pension funds started to crumble in his hands. It looked as though they might lose everything. A few hours later, I got the call from Mina.

At the end of the conversation in the carriage just outside York, Mina had insisted that I drop by at her offices as soon as the train arrived in London. I could see from the address that IHCF was located in one of the most expensive areas of London, so I had hesitated; I’d come down to London to see friends and hadn’t expected to go to a meeting. I was covered in stubble and in need of a haircut. My glasses were twisted out of shape from one of the children standing on them and I was wearing a pair of torn jeans and a thin cotton jacket that was a bit ragged about the elbows, but I had an hour or so to spare so I took the tube over to Mayfair. IHCF’s offices were in a long row of handsome merchant’s houses near to the American embassy; ornate iron railings ran around the ground-floor balconies and a row of Grecian urns stood out along the roofline. Underneath a white portico, a flight of stone steps led up from the pavement towards a highly polished black door. I’d heard that Condoleezza Rice was in town that day so the roads around Bond Street were blocked off and snarled with traffic. I was glad I hadn’t taken a taxi.

I grasped the brass knocker and, after a few moments, there was a click and the door swung open. Inside, a hallway led towards a pair of tall double doors of elaborately inlaid mahogany. There was a marble fireplace on the left with vases at each end. Pale grey panelling reached up towards ornate plaster mouldings on the ceiling. I sat down next to a low glass-topped table strewn with magazines – Country Life and Horse & Hound – crossed one leg over the tear in my jeans, and waited.

After about ten minutes, the double doors burst open and a tall blonde woman bounded in. ‘How you doing? Thanks for dropping by,’ she said, pushing back her hair with one hand and balancing an armful of files on her hip with the other. ‘This week’s been a nightmare!’ she said shaking her head. ‘Let’s grab a coffee and I’ll fill you in on the details.’

We walked through the doors, up a wide staircase towards the back of the building and out onto a terrace, where we settled on a stone balustrade overlooking a garden. There were neat flower beds and clipped box hedges and a lawn that spread out under the shade of an enormous plane tree. Overhead the skies had cleared; the sun’s fading light fell across the leaves with the familiar sharpness of early evening at the end of a perfect summer’s day.

‘Right,’ she said, folding her arms on top of the stack of papers in her lap. ‘We’ve got a bit of a tricky situation here.’ She paused, drew a breath, and looked rather intently at me. ‘It’s like this. We signed up to do the carbon deal I told you about in Quzhou. It’s about a hundred miles inland from Hangzhou. Hangzhou is down on the coast, just south of Shanghai near—’

‘Yeah, I know where Hangzhou is,’ I interrupted.

She paused and glanced at me briefly before continuing with the story.

‘Okay, so we found this big chemical factory out in the sticks,’ she continued. ‘It’s enormous – you wouldn’t believe it – something like eighty thousand people stuck in the middle of nowhere. The factory’s behind these big walls and no one can get in or out except through the gates at the front. I think most of the workers live inside. The factory makes solvents, plastics, that kind of thing, and right in the middle, there’s a reactor that makes coolants, you know, for air conditioners, fridges, and the like. The waste product from the coolant line is really bad; it’s a greenhouse gas that’s thousands of times more potent than CO2 and they’re just venting it all into the air.’

‘Well, can’t they get rid of it somehow?’ I asked.

‘That’s the point; they can use incinerators to burn up the gas, but they’re only available in Japan. We’ve signed up to buy carbon credits so the factory can use that income to get loans to buy the equipment. We both initialled the deal a month ago, but it’s huge. Our first fund wasn’t big enough to cover it so we organized a syndicate to come up with the rest of the money. We ended up with about twelve other investors. I can tell you,’ she said, rolling her eyes, ‘getting them all to agree at the same time has been like herding cats!’

‘But why would anyone want these credits?’ I asked.

‘There’s a huge new market for them in Europe and Japan. Under the Kyoto Protocol, governments have capped the amount of greenhouse gases that businesses can emit; if they go over the cap, they have to go into the market and buy up extra permits. Prices are expected to rise as the caps on emissions get tighter. Anyway,’ she said, reverting to the story, ‘they were all about to sign the formal documents, but Wang just called our rep in China and told us he wants to change the terms. Now the syndicate is wobbling and the whole thing looks like it’s about to go belly-up.’ Her nose wrinkled. ‘Fifteen rounds of negotiation, everything was agreed, and now he wants to change the deal.’

‘Sounds familiar.’

‘I was hoping you might say that,’ she said. ‘We’ve been working with a law firm in Beijing and when this all blew up, they gave us your number and said you might help.’

‘Any clues why he suddenly wants to change the terms?’ I asked.

Mina was stumped. Wang was the chief engineer of the chemical plant in Quzhou and seemed to be leading the negotiations even though he had no legal background. But there were others involved as well. She told me that there was a Mr Tang, who seemed to be deputy manager; Mr Yang, who looked after contracts; a Fang, who was in charge of the factory; and a Zhang, who did the accounts. ‘This is ridiculous,’ she sighed, pulling her hair back again, rubbing her eyes, and fumbling around with some name cards. ‘It’s just all so confusing.’

‘Anyway,’ she went on, ‘it’s Wang who’s just called and he wants to change a whole bunch of clauses. Wouldn’t normally matter, but some of them require changes to the financing. You can imagine – as soon as Wang said he wanted more changes, Winchester went ballistic. There’ve been so many different deals along the way that everyone completely lost it when they heard Wang wanted more changes and that they’d have to go back to the syndicate; they’re all terrified that the Chinese side will just walk away from the deal, find another buyer, and leave us stuck with commitments to the banks and nothing left in China.’

‘Well, I can understand that,’ I said. ‘But what do they want to change? Price? Delivery? Any other of the key terms of the deal?’

‘We just got a message from Cordelia in Beijing saying that they want to change the volume under the contract – the number of credits we have to buy – and the investors are all wobbling. There have been so many changes that they’re all starting to think that nothing will stick.’

‘Cordelia?’ I asked. ‘Who’s that?’

Mina explained that Cordelia Kong was a Chinese broker who had introduced her to the project. It seemed that she had established a strong position in the new markets out there. She’d been one of the first movers in the carbon space and had a network of contacts in the ministries in Beijing. But Mina found her to be erratic; after making the initial introductions and running a brief auction for the factory, she seemed to lose interest. She would disappear for long periods without leaving contact details and then suddenly burst back on the scene without warning. Now it looked as though she’d gone down to Shanghai on business but no one could find her.

‘She just sent a message telling us to speak to the Chinese party directly,’ Mina continued, ‘and now her mobile is off. I’ve been calling her office, but they can’t find her, either. I can’t believe it! We’re paying Cordelia a ton of money and she just disappears right when we need her. I heard some Japanese buyers are visiting the factory in a few days; they might even be there already,’ she groaned. ‘If we lose this deal, I’m stuffed!’

‘Okay,’ I said, ‘so we just need to slow everything down, put everything on hold. Try to freeze things where they are now and buy some time till we get out to Quzhou.’

We talked it through for a few minutes and figured that we should send a message out to the factory immediately. If we told Wang we were coming to visit him in a few days, it might stop him from making any final decision to go with one of the other buyers. But it was nighttime in China so we couldn’t just call him. I figured the best thing to do was type out a message in Chinese and fax it over. That way, Wang would find it first thing in the morning. So we trooped upstairs into one of the attic offices. It was crammed with people squinting into computer screens, with electric fans on each desk trying to blow the heat out of the tiny windows.

Mina introduced me to her boss, a pale, wiry New Yorker who tugged at an unruly mop of black hair as he talked about Wang. ‘There’s a standard way of doing these deals,’ he said, shaking his head. ‘I’ve done it a hundred times at Merrill. Just stick to the term sheet, keep the lawyers on a tight leash, and the deal’ll get done. The Chinese just don’t seem to get it!’ he said.

‘I’m not sure it works quite like that over there,’ I said.

‘Why not?’ he replied blankly. ‘It does everywhere else.’

I sat down at Mina’s desk and pulled over a computer but there was no Chinese software to write up a letter. It wouldn’t look right just to send a handwritten message and anyway I hadn’t brought a dictionary. I was stumped. I suggested sending a draft in English to Cordelia’s translator but there was no way Mina was going to agree to that.

‘She’s hopeless!’ Mina said. ‘Last time she dealt directly with Wang, it took a week to sort out the mistranslations.’

‘Okay, so I’ll write it in English but use Chinese-style sentence structures,’ I explained. ‘I’ve done it plenty of times before; that way the translator knows exactly how to put it into Mandarin and we’d be sure that a clear message gets through to Wang by the morning. We don’t have a minute to lose.’

Mina was sceptical but there didn’t seem to be much alternative, so I started typing and two minutes later handed her a piece of paper.

‘I know this looks a bit odd, but it’ll go straight across into Chinese, no problem. The translator won’t be confused by it. Just put it on company letterhead, get your CEO to sign it, and send it over to Beijing. The translator can add in the Chinese in these gaps and you can get her to fax both versions down to the factory first thing in the morning. It’ll be fine.’

‘Er … perhaps you should explain this to Winchester,’ she said after reading the note. ‘I don’t think he’d sign this for me.’

She took me down to Winchester’s office and left me outside the door. I knocked hesitantly and a voice from inside barked, ‘Come!’ Inside, there was a couple of worn leather-backed chairs arranged around a fireplace, with a table strewn with teacups and a plate of half-eaten scones. On the sideboard, a decanter and some glasses stood on a tray next to a couple of old sherry bottles, and over the mantelpiece there was a photograph with rows of men in uniform graduating from Sandhurst.

‘I hear Mina called you in for a recce,’ said a tall man, folding up a copy of the Daily Telegraph and rising stiffly from the desk. Behind him, a set of French windows opened out onto the garden and the breeze ruffled a few papers on the desk. On the wall, there was a large map of Eastern Europe, a sign, perhaps, that the Cold War was still in full swing in Mayfair. ‘Jolly good,’ he continued. ‘Jolly good. Tiresome business, this – the old girl seems a bit down on her chinstraps so it’s good to have you on board. There’s a lot hanging on this mission, you know.’ He paused and looked at me more closely. ‘In mufti today are we?’ he said, raising his eyebrows and peering at my clothing as if over a set of imaginary spectacles.

‘Er, well sort of,’ I replied weakly, scratching the stubble on my chin and trying to cover the holes in my trousers. ‘Let’s just see what they want first, shall we?’ I said, trying to sound more cheerful. I handed over the letter.

Respected Chief Engineer Wang: Hello!

My side, at the day in front of now, received your valuable side’s telephone and felt ten-out-of-ten happy. We straight through believe, through twin sides’ effort and sincerity, our project fixedly will succeed. Now, if your side, amongst a hundred busy things, pulls out a length of time, my side shall grasp fully empowered representative Project Director Mina and send her respectfully to visit your valuable factory for friendly negotiations on top of the spirit of mutual benefit and equality also. According to my side’s arrangement, Project Director Mina arrives at Hangzhou at the day behind tomorrow. Ask valuable side to confirm that arranging.

Ten thousand things just as you please!

Delivered from,

Winchester

Winchester didn’t get much beyond the bit about ‘receiving your valuable side’s telephone and feeling ten-out-of-ten happy’ before he swelled to a purplish hue, and I found myself abruptly dismissed from the room. I heard later that as soon as I left, he called Mina over an intercom and exploded. At first he refused to sign the letter, ranting that it looked as though it had been written by a six-year-old and demanding to know how she could have contemplated asking such a dishevelled-looking halfwit to represent the company in China. But eventually peace returned to the offices; the letter was rearranged into a more recognizable form, Winchester signed it, and it was sent over to Beijing. Wang replied the next morning. By the following evening, only a few months after arriving back in England, I found myself on a plane out to Hong Kong.

4

UP IN THE SKY THERE IS PARADISE, BUT DOWN ON THE EARTH WE HAVE HANGZHOU fn1

—from Illustrious Words to Instruct the World, by Feng Menglong, c. AD 1620

As I threw a few things together for the trip out to China, I knew that I was dealing with an explosive mixture. On one side, Winchester seemed nervous and volatile. He was under tremendous pressure, knew little of China, and was working through a harassed and exhausted negotiator. The syndicate was fragile and he wasn’t in control. On the other side, Mina’s descriptions suggested that Wang was a wily and experienced operator with a number of different options to choose from. The project could be worth a lot of money and other buyers were already circling. On the surface, it looked as though Winchester had a lot more to lose than Wang. I knew that a good Chinese negotiator would sense that and know how to extract maximum value. Finally, Cordelia was lurking unpredictably in the shadows. I knew almost nothing about the carbon industry and had none of the specialist vocabulary even in English, so I felt unsure of myself. When I arrived at the airport with an hour to spare, I found the business lounge and pulled up a computer. I was searching for websites with the technical terms in Chinese when Mina came bounding up behind me. Later she admitted to me that her heart had sunk when she found me there. Winchester had already concluded that I was a halfwit and now she’d seen from my Web search that I didn’t even know the Chinese for ‘carbon credit’. With more than €150 million of carbon hanging by a thread and one last chance to recover it, she knew that her job was on the line.

As the plane flew over Russia and on into the night, I could see from the bundle of papers that Mina had dumped on my lap that IHCF had agreed to buy carbon credits from the chemical factory in Quzhou for a period of five years. At the back of the files, behind bundles of contracts and spreadsheets, I found some background information on the carbon industry. It explained how there was a growing demand for emission allowances because the European Union and Japan had agreed to impose strict limits, or ‘caps’, on big greenhouse gas emitters, including power stations, steelworks, chemical factories and cement plants. If any of the plants failed to meet the cap, they had to go into the carbon market and buy emission allowances, which were expensive. The system was known as cap-and-trade and had some similarities to the system that had been used in the United States to cut back on gases that cause acid rain. The idea was to force businesses to pay for emissions they made in order to create an incentive to reduce them. The emission allowances came mainly from the EU and Japanese governments, but the United Nations was also involved and could issue equivalent allowances, called ‘international offsets’ or ‘carbon credits’, from projects that reduced greenhouse gases in developing countries. IHCF intended to buy carbon credits from the chemical factory in China and sell them in the European markets to companies that needed additional allowances in order to meet their caps. From the figures included in the investor proposal, it was clear that carbon trading in Europe had taken off in a big way. In the previous three years, the market in Europe had grown from a few hundred million to around €60 billion.

The documents were full of jargon and acronyms that were difficult to follow but I figured out that the UN could issue carbon credits under something called the Clean Development Mechanism, or CDM. Over the past decades, emissions had soared in China, India, Brazil and parts of Africa as these countries began to industrialize. The CDM aimed to encourage the use of low-carbon technologies in the developing world by providing an opportunity to make money from the sale of carbon credits. If a project based on low-carbon technology was too expensive and wouldn’t make returns by itself – as was often the case – developers there could apply to the UN to generate credits and boost their profits so they became financially viable.

On the surface, the CDM seemed like an imaginative way to help reduce the carbon footprints of the vast new infrastructures being built in the developing world. It didn’t just apply to chemical plants; cement factories, coal mines, ironworks and steel mills could all apply for credits if they led to lower emissions. The most important area seemed to be the power sector, which was encouraged to move away from coal, but by far the largest number of credits seemed to come from projects aimed at cutting industrial greenhouse gases from chemical plants in China. While I still wasn’t clear about the technical details, it was obvious that IHCF thought they could make a fortune from the deal.

We changed flights in Hong Kong and by late morning, we had arrived in Hangzhou under clear summer skies. Hangzhou was the capital of China for a time during the Song Dynasty and the ancient city lies around the shorelines of a lake immortalized over the centuries for its spectacular natural beauty. As the car sped along the embankments, I could see the peaks of little islands jutting out of the water. In the far distance, the powdery blue silhouette of mountains rose up above the canopy of trees on the opposite bank. Reeds and rushes lined the water’s edge. On the stone-flagged pathways that meandered around the lake, women in high-collared jackets practised tai chi between clumps of rustling bamboo. Sunlight flashed on the ripples that trailed from little wooden boats. Nearby, from the tops of the sloping temple roofs, the faintest trace of smoke drifted up from the incense burners inside. I caught a glimpse of a pagoda rising up through the sandalwood trees on the hill behind the lake and commented to Mina on how beautiful it all was. ‘Too right, mate,’ she said, looking across the water. ‘If I had me swimmies with me, I’d be right in there!’

Just after lunch, we drove over to meet Wang. He was staying near Hangzhou’s main railway station in a hotel owned by the factory. It was one of a string of hotels left over from the days of China’s planned economy, when everything was owned by the state. In those days, everyone belonged to a work unit that provided schools, hospitals, housing and, in this case, even hotels, where the factory managers could stay during the long and tedious meetings with the province’s Chemical Bureau.

Bundles of laundry hung from the upstairs windows of the rows of shabby shops around the station. Long loops of wires sagged between telegraph poles and the narrow streets were congested with traffic. The whole area was dilapidated and the heat was oppressive as we sat in a taxi lined up at some broken traffic lights. On the cracked pavements outside the hotel, hawkers sold bowls of fried bean curd and chives from under sheets of canvas slung between bamboo poles. Inside, there was a wooden counter at the end of a lobby, with a couple of bored receptionists playing games on their mobile phones. On the wall behind them, the name ‘Quintessence Hotel’ stood out in gold letters and a line of clocks told the time in London, Moscow, Sharjah and Beijing. On the end of the counter there was a stack of company brochures that advertised paints, dyes and adhesives, with photographs of the reactor towers in the factory at Quzhou.

We signed a slip of paper and went up to the fourth floor. Next to the elevator there was a little pantry where a girl was asleep over a table with her head cradled in her arms. Enamel mugs were piled up next to a big water boiler that bubbled gently in the corner with hot water to make tea. Down the corridor, the carpets were wrinkled and stained and around the doorways the paint was battered and scratched. Everywhere smelled of mildew. At the end of the hallway there was a sign in English that read ‘Holding Talks Room’. As we approached the door, Mina held back to let me go in first, but I took her arm and gently pushed her forward. It was important that she lead the discussions. I still knew almost nothing about the business, so I couldn’t negotiate with Wang. I planned to spend most of the first day invisible and listening.

Inside we found the familiar scene of a big circular table in the middle of the room with a bunch of plastic flowers in a dusty glass vase at the centre. The wallpaper was peeling away at the bottom of the walls and a row of badly fitting windows looked out onto a schoolyard below. The shouts and cries of a children’s playground rose up through the air. In the corner, a broken metal coatrack leaned against a huge air conditioner that had a notice pasted across that said ‘Under Maintenance’. The air was hot and damp.

Wang was waiting inside with a couple of assistants. He was plumper than I had imagined, quite short and balding. He leaped to his feet as we walked in and was obviously pleased to see Mina. He didn’t bother to ask who I was; I guessed that the team from IHCF had changed so much that his curiosity wasn’t aroused by just one more new face.

For the next five hours, I sat and listened, occasionally helping to straighten out the odd confusion with Wang’s translator. The table was big enough to seat at least fifteen people, so there was plenty of space; I sat away from Wang, near one of his assistants, who chain-smoked his way through the afternoon. Mina and I had agreed beforehand that she should run through the contract, clause by clause. That way we might nail down the differences between each side and start to trade them off. It was tedious work. Throughout the afternoon, there were constant interruptions as people came in, delivering messages and collecting bits of paper. I had to get up several times to clear the waves of jet lag washing over me and I wandered around the corridors outside. As Mina went through the contract, Wang seemed alternately distracted or overfocused on details. After his initially friendly manner, he quickly grew irascible and stubborn. I couldn’t tell whether it was because he was under pressure or he was just being deliberately awkward, pretending not to understand issues or dragging up old arguments that Mina thought had been settled months beforehand. He didn’t seem particularly interested in discussing price or payment terms but he wanted to increase the number of carbon credits to be covered by the contract. But that was impossible; the syndicate had been put together in London to cover the number of credits that had been fixed at the last meeting and it was far too late to change it. Mina just passed on the point without comment and moved on.

After the first few hours, there were frequent lulls in the conversation. Several times, Wang wandered over to a battered old sofa at the back of the room and stretched out, with his trousers rolled over his calves, slurping tea out of a big jam jar and fanning himself with a copy of the Hangzhou Daily. He had a bowl of roasted melon seeds on his lap and, leaning forward against the arm of the sofa, he sat cracking the seeds between his teeth and spitting the shells out into a wastepaper basket at his feet. On other occasions, he’d get up, yawn loudly, stretch, and push his hands deep into his pockets before wandering off down the corridor with a rolling, slouching gait for twenty minutes. By ten in the evening, the room was insufferably stuffy; my head was aching from the clouds of cigarette smoke from Wang’s assistant and I felt dizzy with jet lag. I moved over to the windows and tried to drag one open, but Mina yelled at me to stop. She had opened one on the first visit and been eaten alive by mosquitoes. Hot, tired, bad-tempered and hungry, we were getting nowhere so we decided to call it a day. We agreed with Wang that we’d meet up at eight the following morning, hailed a taxi to take us back to the hotel by the lake, and sat dejectedly on the lumpy seats in the back contemplating the day. We had achieved nothing, ended up with more questions than answers, and felt exhausted all at the same time.

Back at the hotel, we made straight for the bar and perched up on a couple of high stools. Through the pine trees in the hotel grounds and reflected in the lake, we could see the shapes of exploding chrysanthemums and shooting stars from an enormous firework display above the distant city skyline.

The hotel was originally built as a state-run training school for the Party cadres, so it occupied a prime position on the hill below the pagoda. It was built like an aircraft hangar, with echoing hallways and draughty corridors. I heard that a Hong Kong property group had taken over the management of the hotel just after China opened up and had tried to spruce it up with yellow wallpaper, thick carpets, and flouncy curtains. There were chandeliers in the hallways and gold fixtures in the bathrooms, but I noticed that sections of the hotel seemed cordoned off by dusty lacquer screens and lines of tired-looking rubber plants arranged in pots across the landings.

After the first beer, jet lag evaporated. I suddenly felt wide awake. Mina said she thought that the day had been hopeless but I tried to keep our spirits up. ‘Look on the bright side,’ I said. ‘At least they agreed to meet us.’

It was true; if they’d reached an agreement with one of the other buyers, Wang wouldn’t have agreed to meet. Slowly, as we mulled over the day, the mood brightened. Halfway into the second beer, I began to take the measure of Mina. She told me that she had read law at Melbourne University, snatching the odd moment for study between her commitments to the Student Union, the women’s rowing team, and a punishing regime of daily exercise and training. On graduation, she joined one of the big law firms, before moving on to the Sydney Stock Exchange, where she worked on designing forestry credits, one of the world’s first financial instruments for environmental investing. By the time she was thirty, she had joined the World Bank. Based in Washington, DC, she travelled throughout Asia negotiating carbon deals.

She felt passionately about preserving the natural environment and her conversation often reverted to pet topics, such as water conservation, forestry management, or digging wells in Africa. Mina’s tall, athletic build, her pale blue eyes, and the distinctive chunky jewellery she wore gave her a striking presence. People remembered her. She had that knack of walking into a room and connecting – of making people she’d only just met feel individual and special. I could tell that Wang liked her even though they couldn’t communicate directly. Years later, he told me that the reason that they’d chosen IHCF as their foreign counterparty was that they felt comfortable dealing with Mina.

As I got to know her better, I began to realize that Mina’s energy levels elevated her above the normal confines of time; strictly vegetarian, she never drank alcohol and needed hardly any sleep. I’d often find out that she had spent several hours before sunrise wading through some turgid documents while doing forty klicks on an exercise bike, or that she’d run fifteen miles before breakfast. Her energy bordered on the inexhaustible; she once mentioned in passing that she’d just completed an Ironman event, which apparently involved swimming several miles before riding a bicycle uphill for about five hours and then blithely embarking on a marathon. I wasn’t in the least bit surprised when she broke her hip years later while running two hundred and fifty miles across the Sahara. On top of the almost limitless physical output, she had developed ‘blue sky thinking’ into an entirely new art form; she had a thousand new ideas a minute that used to burst into the conversation unannounced from random angles.

Over the time that she’d been travelling to Asia, Mina had developed an affection for China, which I liked; she felt comfortable there and, like me, she enjoyed its eccentricities. She was easy to be with, that was for sure, and completely focused on the task at hand; but at times it was tough to keep up.

We both agreed that Wang had seemed strangely disconnected and never seemed to answer any of the questions directly. It felt as if he wasn’t telling us the real reason for wanting to change the contract; the whole day had been taken up fencing over side issues. We had to figure out his real objective but with Cordelia still impossible to contact, there wasn’t much we could go on.

‘There’s an old Chinese military saying, “Know yourself and know the other and you’ll survive a hundred battles”,’ I said. ‘Trouble is we have no idea what Wang really wants. We need to figure it out and find out who he reports to, what pressure he’s under, what other options he has.’

Mina grunted.

‘That doesn’t give us very good odds for winning this particular battle,’ I said.

‘Well, that’s all very interesting,’ said Mina impatiently, ‘but this isn’t warfare, is it? It’s a negotiation.’

‘Sure,’ I said, ‘but the ideas are still useful. That’s why Chinese people are so good at all this. Just think, The Art of War was written more than two thousand years ago and they still use it every day. Anyway, your lot seem pretty military, too,’ I added. ‘I bet Winchester’s been reading Clausewitz at bedtime for years.’

‘Well,’ she continued, ignoring that comment, ‘if Wang won’t tell us what he wants, how do we figure it out?’

I’d seen from the company brochure that a part of the chemicals group had gone public in Shanghai a couple of years earlier. They were one of the larger manufacturing groups in China, so Wang could easily develop other options; we knew that he was already talking to some Japanese buyers, so that closed off the possibility of threatening to walk away from the deal if we didn’t get what Winchester wanted. We had to be smarter than that.

‘We can’t ask Wang directly,’ I said, ‘so we’ll have to go around him. Let’s try to find someone else to tell us what’s really going on. Sunzi always talks about the importance of using spies. That little guy – you know, Wang’s assistant, Chain-smoking Chen – he looks as though he might be converted.’

We agreed that the next day Mina should continue through the contract with Wang and that I’d start to work on Chen. It was well past midnight by the time we turned in, but at least we had a plan for the next day. I was still wide awake and only drifted off just short of three o’clock, so I was in a deep sleep when the phone rang at quarter to seven the next morning. ‘Where are you?’ she said. ‘I’ve just got back from a run.’

Mina and Wang spent the whole of the second day arguing about the timing of some obscure approval documents. I soon lost the thread of the argument, so I started working on Chen.

Chain-smoking Chen was twenty-four and had spent his whole life in Quzhou. Both of his parents worked at the chemical factory. He told me that he had never travelled outside the province, but when Wang assigned him to work on the carbon project, he’d grabbed the chance to come to Hangzhou. He was shy and reserved but he brightened up a little when he saw that I wanted to chat. After his first trip to Hangzhou, he had joined an evening class in English, dreaming of finding a job in a foreign company somewhere along the coast. But his mother and father lived in the factory; Chen was an only child so it looked as though he was struggling with the dilemma between his loyalty to his parents and his desire to break out of this country backwater. He was cautious and I found it difficult to draw him out.

By the second evening in the bar, Mina was becoming frustrated; I’d hardly said a word for two days. I sensed that she was losing patience and beginning to think that Winchester might have been right about me being a halfwit after all. A stream of anxious and distracting messages had been arriving from London all demanding updates on our progress. Meanwhile, Wang frequently revisited parts of the contract that we thought had already been agreed, so it was almost impossible to convey a clear picture back home. Whenever Mina tried to explain that Wang was switching back and forth, the team in London grew even more aggravated, which led to a further cascade of anxious messages. I encouraged her to be patient, but with the drumbeats from Mayfair getting louder and louder, I knew that it couldn’t be easy.

Throughout the whole of the morning of the third day, Wang didn’t even call us. He kept us cooling our heels at the hotel. Chain-smoking Chen had told us that the mayor of Quzhou was in town so we figured Wang was detained in meetings. That wasn’t a good sign; he seemed to be prioritizing routine meetings with a government official ahead of sorting out our contract. By the early afternoon, there was still no news, so we took a long stroll around the edge of the lake, wondering what to do. Suddenly, at about four thirty, Wang called and told us that a car was already waiting for us back at the hotel. He wanted to know where we were. Sprinting back around the lake, we changed into business clothes and were whisked off to another, much smarter hotel in a different part of town. There we were ushered into a large room with low chairs arranged around three sides of a square. Embroidered doilies were draped over the backs of the chairs and between each of them, a ceramic teacup with a lid sat on little wooden tables. After a while there was a commotion outside, and a man in an immaculate black suit strode in and shook Mina’s hand.

‘Ni hao!’ she said. Hello!

‘Ey!’ said the mayor, tilting his head back and smiling at Mina admiringly. ‘Nide Zhongwen zhen bang!’ Your Chinese is truly marvellous!

Mina stared back blankly, searching around for a translator.

The next thirty minutes were taken up with minor pleasantries: how far we’d travelled to get to China; how the pagodas around West Lake had been famous throughout history; how the scenery had been celebrated in Song Dynasty poetry. The mayor’s entourage nodded in agreement and laughed at all the appropriate moments. Next we had a description of the municipal transport systems; the number of Chinese tourists; the delights of the local fresh fish; the esteem in which Hangzhou’s dumplings were held throughout China. I could see Mina fidgeting and glancing at her watch. She’d arranged a call back to London for seven o’clock and it looked like we were in for the long haul. Just before six, we were suddenly whisked off to a banquet, stuffed with about fifteen courses, plied with several bottles of beer – each presented with a large white ceramic statue of Confucius – and, less than an hour later, loaded into a car and driven back to the hotel, puzzled by the whole episode. The project had never been mentioned.

When I saw Mina the following morning, she was at her wits’ end. She’d been on the phone all night and Winchester was beside himself with impatience. A meeting had been scheduled with the syndicate underwriters for the next day in the City and the pressure was mounting. Winchester ordered a further teleconference with the whole team in Mayfair as soon as they got into the office, which, given the time difference, was early afternoon in China.

When we arrived at the ‘Holding Talks Room’, Wang turned up late again and the conversation continued for the whole morning without much progress. Just before lunch, Wang wandered off again so I told Mina to take a break downstairs. I took my chance with Chen; there was no time left for subtlety.

I told Chen that I thought it was a pity that progress was so slow on such an important project. Perhaps there was some misunderstanding between the two parties; of course, if he had any suggestions, we would take them very seriously. He was cautious at first and just said that we should continue to talk with Wang. ‘This is a big project,’ he said, ‘so Wang reports directly to General Manager Gao.’

‘Manager Gao.’ I said. ‘I thought Tang was in charge.’

‘Gao is the head of the Shanghai listed company and he pays great attention to this project,’ said Chen.

‘So what does Gao think we should do?’ I asked.

Eventually Chen came to the point. ‘It’s all about the second line,’ he said. ‘Old Gao needs you to take in the second line.’

‘The second line?’ I asked.

‘Mina will know what I mean. Old Gao just says that the second line has to go into the contract.’

‘Well how about price, payment terms, all the other clauses?’

He just pursed his lips and the conversation drifted away. But at least we had the first clue.

I went out to look for Mina and found her sitting dejectedly in the lobby, sipping on a tall glass of chrysanthemum tea. When I told her what Chain-smoking Chen had said, she knew immediately what he meant. Inside the chemical plant at Quzhou, there were two separate production lines. At the start of the negotiations, Mina had tried to get both of the lines into the deal so that IHCF would get the maximum number of credits, but Wang had refused point-blank. The second line was huge; Mina told me that every year it spewed out gases with the equivalent warming effect of nearly five million tons of carbon dioxide. There had been weeks of discussions in the spring, but Wang wouldn’t be shifted and he refused to put the line into the deal. Eventually Mina figured that the carbon from the second line must have been sold to another buyer, so IHCF organized the syndicate to include only the credits from the first line. But now it appeared that Wang needed to reverse his position.

When Wang returned, we raised the issue directly and probed every way we could think of to avoid increasing the number of credits under the contract, but Wang was adamant. His position seemed to have become fixed and he was insistent that IHCF bought the credits from both lines. I switched into Mandarin and tried to persuade Wang to be more flexible. Whenever I asked him why he couldn’t just sell the second line to another buyer, he just said that it would be too troublesome to separate the two. But this made no sense; only a few months earlier, he’d been insisting on the opposite. Mina tried every idea we could think of – taking an option on the second line, cutting the carbon streams into two parts, taking some now with smaller amounts later – but Wang wouldn’t budge. It seemed as if we’d reached deadlock. I became more apprehensive about the phone call to London as the minutes ticked by and we failed to get to the bottom of the story.

At the allotted time, we trooped down the hallway to the little pantry next to the elevators. Mina swore under her breath as she tripped on one of the bumps in the carpet. Bizarrely, the pantry had a fixed line phone with a speaker where we could take a conference call in private. There was no line out, but the phone could accept incoming calls through the switchboard downstairs – but the call didn’t come in on time, so we sat there and waited in silence. The water boiler for tea was still steaming gently on a Formica-topped table in the corner, so it was stiflingly hot and as damp as a sauna. On the wall above the boiler, condensation was dripping down the glass frame of a famous photograph of Chairman Mao relaxing with a cigarette on top of Mount Lushan in a large wooden deck chair. As I leaned over the phone, I felt droplets of sweat gathering on the end of my nose. After a few more minutes, I called down to the operator only to discover that a foreigner had called several times earlier but she couldn’t understand what he wanted and hung up. I asked her to transfer the next foreign-language call up to our extension and after another few minutes we were connected. It wasn’t a good start; the receptionist had already put the phone down on Winchester several times, so he was spluttering with irritation before we even started.

Mina kicked off with a summary of the last few days while I sat on the edge of the table and listened. Once she had finished, I leaned down towards the phone and explained that the Chinese side seemed very fixed on putting in the second line. But Winchester was having none of it.

‘We went through all of that in March,’ he said. ‘We’ve closed the syndicate on the basis of this first deal. We can’t just go back and ask for more money; it would completely ruin our credibility.’

‘Well, perhaps we can do something less formal with the second line and get around it that way,’ I said.

‘What does that mean?’

‘Maybe we can stick to the existing deal for the first line and do something a bit vaguer for the second.’

‘Vaguer!?’

‘Well, often Chinese parties reach slightly vague agreements while they figure out what they really need to do. It’d buy us a bit of time. We can sign up the first line and do something less formal on the second.’

‘Less formal! Vague! Have you completely lost your mind?’ he raged. ‘We’re dealing with some of the biggest institutional investors in Europe. They’re not going to botch together some hare-brained scheme just to keep the Chinese happy. Less formal!’ he snorted. ‘The directors would all have hernias!’

After a few more minutes of haggling, we were instructed to go back to Wang and tell him that the deal had to stay the same. But when Mina explained it to Wang, he just replied calmly, ‘Bu xuyao tan le’ – no need to discuss then – and quietly gathered his papers. We protested, of course. Why couldn’t he just sell the second line to another buyer? We waved our arms in the air and threw papers onto the table; we pleaded and cajoled; we used flattery and promises, threats and excuses, but they were all useless. Wang just stood up and calmly left the room.

When we managed to get through to London to report this latest development, a jumble of voices burst furiously from the speakerphone in front of us, all demanding that the Chinese needed to go back to the original deal. When the clamour died down, one of them said, ‘You’ve just got to go back in there and tell them that they have to go back to the existing agreement.’

‘But we’ve already done that three times and Wang won’t agree.’

‘Do it again. Just insist on it. Don’t they understand that this sort of behaviour will ruin their reputation in the City?’

‘What!’

‘It’ll ruin their reputation in the City.’

‘Right,’ piped in a second voice. ‘Deutsche Bank is underwriting the whole deal!’

‘I shouldn’t think Wang has ever heard of Deutsche Bank before this deal!’ I said.

‘What?’

‘Yeah,’ Mina added. ‘Wang just told me he needs to show a copy of Deutsche Bank’s certificate of incorporation to the local Commercial Bureau here in Quzhou. They want to check out they’re real.’

After a brief moment of stunned silence, a sort of strangulated yell came out of the phone. ‘Anyone who hasn’t heard of Deutsche Bank is a cretin! Don’t they realise that Deutsche Bank was founded under the Treaty of Augsburg?!’

After a brief moment to gather his wits, another one said, ‘They must be out to stiff us. We spent months arguing about that second line in March and they wouldn’t put it in. This has to be about price or something.’

‘Yeah, or perhaps they’ve closed the factory? I read somewhere last week that everyone’s stopped buying fridges in China.’

‘What?!’ I said.

‘Or maybe there’s been a fire,’ said another.

‘Or perhaps it’s exploded!’ said a third. ‘I hear factories are always exploding in China.’

‘It could have been nationalized!’

‘Right,’ said another. ‘I saw a report about the government seizing a property business in Shanghai. They’d had riots there about some unfinished apartments.’

‘Hang on!’ I spluttered. ‘Can we try to get back to reality here? People are still buying fridges in China and the factory hasn’t exploded. There hasn’t been a fire and the factory can’t be nationalized because the government already controls it! No one has ever mentioned price, so why would they want to stiff you? We have to figure out what they really want. Try to look at it from their side. Wang’s sitting in a medium-sized town way out in the sticks in China working in some old broken-down chemical factory minding his own business and shuffling bits of paper, and then you all come along and offer him a hundred million bucks if he installs a few incinerators. Why would he want to stiff you?’

‘Bunch of yahoos, if you ask me,’ someone muttered in the background.

‘Look,’ continued another more sharply, ‘this deal has changed so many times, the syndicate’s already wobbling. If we just go back and ask them to double their money, it’ll blow the whole thing out of the water.’

‘Okay,’ I said, ‘but something must have happened to change the situation here. We need to take a bit of time to find out what that is. Wang’s in a different world; it makes no difference to him personally whether this deal gets done or not, but if you get it right, your investors will make a fortune. Whatever happens with this deal, Wang’s salary will just stay the same. But if something goes wrong later, he’ll get blamed by his boss. All his housing and his pension and his kid’s education are organized by the factory. Wang’s never going to risk all that for something where he’s got nothing to gain. If we try to put pressure on him, he’ll just clam up and do nothing.’

‘Absolute bollocks!’ I heard someone say in the background just before a click as the phone cut off. Then there was silence.

I looked at Mina.

‘So where does that leave us?’ I asked after a few moments.

‘Don’t worry,’ she said, rolling her eyes with a sigh. ‘We’ll get a nasty email in the morning.’

5

THE FIRST CHINESE RULE:
How Can We Go So Far as to Change the Regulations of the Celestial Empire – Which are Over a Hundred Years Old – at the Request of One Man – of You, O King!?

—Edict of the Qianlong Emperor to King George III of England, August 1793

We were not the first band of foreigners to be kept waiting and given the runaround in China, nor the first to be sent with impossible instructions. For years visitors have felt confused, rebuffed and bamboozled by what they’ve found there; and none of them more so than the British.

In the autumn of 1792, while the world was preoccupied by the French Revolution, three ships set sail quietly from the south coast of England. King Louis XVI of France had been deposed and there’d been massacres in the prisons. Guillotine blades skidded down greased runners as carts piled high with severed heads rumbled through the shadows around the walls of the old Bastille; Europe braced for war. So the dispatch by George III of an embassy to China attracted little attention as it cast off with the morning tide on 26 September. The expedition was led by a former ambassador to the Russian tsarina, the Right Honourable Lord Macartney, and consisted of physicians, astronomers, painters, musicians, clockmakers, soldiers and servants, numbering more than seven hundred in all. The purpose of the mission was explained in a letter carried by the ambassador from His Britannic Majesty to the Celestial Emperor as follows:

We have taken opportunities of fitting out Ships and sending in them some of the most wise and learned of Our Own People, for the discovery of distant regions … Our ardent wish [is] to become acquainted with the celebrated institutions of Your Majesty’s populous and extensive Empire … [T]hese considerations have determined Us to depute an Ambassador to Your Court [for] communication with … your Sublime Person … [W]e rely on Your Imperial Majesty’s wisdom that You will allow Our Subjects frequenting the coasts of Your dominions fair access to Your markets.

Imperator Augustissime

Vester bonus frater et Amicus

Georgius R

This was not the first embassy to tackle China; Portugal, the Netherlands and Russia had all sent ambassadors on more than one occasion, but they had each returned empty-handed. The gates to the Celestial Empire, it seemed, remained hermetically sealed. France had sent missionaries, and a handful of Jesuit priests had lived in Beijing for a number of years, but none had ever returned. In fact, Macartney’s was the sixteenth embassy sent to pry open the gates, but it was the first worthy of the name. Supremely confident, possessed of the world’s most powerful navy, and poised on the threshold of the Industrial Revolution, the British were fixed upon impressing the ancient Middle Kingdom with gifts that displayed the most ingenious inventions of the modern European age; but more important – as George III stated in his letter – they were determined to open the channels of trade.

Macartney’s first problem was finding translators; there weren’t any. He eventually recruited two Chinese priests who had been living at the Collegium Sinicum in Naples. Although they knew no English, they could communicate with passable Latin. Father Li’s teeth had been ruined by smoking and Father Zhou had that somewhat familiar passion for crunching dried melon pips, which Macartney described as ‘a habit not easily tolerated by a gentleman.’ Impressed by Li’s single-minded commitment to smoking, Macartney was later less surprised than he might have been to find out that everyone smoked in China – even the children, who came running out of houses with pipes between their teeth. In fact, smoking was so prevalent that if someone was deathly ill and on his last legs, the Chinese would say, ‘He’s so ill he can’t even smoke any more.’

After leaving the English Channel, the embassy was blown off course in the Atlantic and the ships became separated. They only regrouped the following March at Batavia – now Jakarta – in what was then known as the Dutch East Indies. Eleven days later, they set sail northwards. After more than nine months at sea, the embassy finally caught sight of the Chinese mainland and dropped anchor at Macao. Terrified of being caught assisting the embassy, one of the translators skipped ship and disappeared – Macartney had heard that Chinese were forbidden to leave China and that the punishment for teaching Mandarin to a foreigner was death. The other, a Tatar whose Chinese was less fluent, took the more imaginative option of disguising himself as a foreigner.

The embassy, meanwhile, was under strict surveillance by the watchful mandarins onshore. Prior to his arrival, Macartney had requested permission to visit Beijing from the customs house in Canton, not through the provincial governor as required by the Celestial Regulations. The governor, unsettled by this ignorance of court etiquette, had sent an anxious memorial to the emperor seeking further instructions:

Upon their arrival in Canton, the English barbarians asked to be taken to the Customs Office to present a request. We immediately granted them an audience. Their report states that the King of England … has dispatched an envoy. The Rites require that barbarians, once granted permission to enter a port, present a copy of their sovereign’s request, along with a list of the articles of tribute. The king of England, however, has supplied us with neither of these two documents. We have only the letter submitted by the English merchants. Your humble slave dare not present such a document to Your Majesty.

The memorial was returned with annotations in vermillion brushstrokes from the emperor’s own hand: ‘We will transmit instructions to you.’ The countless cogs of the state’s vast bureaucratic machinery had glided silently into motion. From that moment, every step of the embassy was monitored and logged, every act recorded and transmitted to the emperor by special runners who worked in relays that could cover as much as six hundred li in a day. Edicts from Beijing were dispatched back to the provinces, copied, given a response and returned. The emperor added his final marginal notes in red ink before the runners headed back posthaste to the provinces. The system had operated for centuries and had been overhauled by Qianlong’s father, the Yongzheng Emperor. In Qianlong’s reign, hundreds of documents could be on the road at any one time, connecting the centre through a web of highly trained mandarin officials across vast distances to the daily affairs of every far-flung corner of the empire.

The embassy cast off from Macau to the sound of church bells calling the faithful to Mass. It proceeded up the coast and stopped at the Zhoushan Islands, off the coast of Zhejiang, just south of modern-day Shanghai. It was here that the embassy had its first inkling that protocol was to become a major obstacle to its success.

The mandarin official sent to accompany the embassy to Beijing refused to step on board the ship. Imperial regulations required imperial officials to ‘descend onto the barbarian vessel,’ but the ship was too large for the Chinese to construct the customary bamboo walkway downward from the quay towards the boat. It was simply inconceivable that the mandarin would contemplate clambering upward onto the decks, so he refused to go on board at all. Instead he sent provisions including some twenty steers, more than a hundred sheep and hogs, a hundred ducks, and 160 sacks of flour as the first, emphatic demonstration of the excesses of Chinese hospitality.

Confusion over the gifts brought for the emperor from England was the next difficulty; etiquette required Macartney to understate their value but he couldn’t bring himself to describe them as ‘mere trinkets from our poor country’, as the mandarin had suggested. Next he discovered that the Chinese version of the list of gifts was riddled with translation errors. Passing from English to Latin, then to Chinese and finally into official court language, it had been converted into gibberish. Macartney had brought a planetarium to demonstrate Europe’s achievements in combining an understanding of the motion of celestial bodies – including the four moons of Jupiter – with the latest in precision engineering. But the Chinese had no idea what it was. Planetarium had been translated phonetically and rendered meaningless. After much discussion it was listed as a ‘geographical and astronomical musical clock’. In the end, the Chinese never read the list or even wondered what the articles might be; all that mattered was that the number of individual items was correct and that the list was complete.

These translation difficulties propelled an unlikely character to the fore. Macartney’s deputy had brought along his son, a boy named Thomas Staunton, who had picked up some Chinese language from the two priests on the long voyage. The youth, whose ‘senses were more acute and organs more flexible, proved to be a tolerably good interpreter’, so he took over much of the translation.

Once the gifts had been properly categorized, the ships moved farther up the coast towards Tianjin, where they were to be packed into crates, loaded onto junks, and transported to the docks at Dagu. There they would be transferred onto smaller junks and taken inland by canal before finally going ashore for the twelve-mile journey to Beijing. A memorial to the emperor read:

In all, there are 590 pieces to be transferred from the barbarian ships to the port. The handling operation is proceeding without interruption but is not yet complete. The passengers of the ships will enter the port only after the tribute has been fully unloaded.

‘This is excellent and we fully approve,’ wrote the vermillion brush.

It was at Dagu that the embassy first encountered Chinese delaying tactics. They had been travelling for almost a year and were impatient to see the emperor. But now they were told that a viceroy had suddenly arrived to greet them. Ushered into a large hall in a temple, surrounded by tents with streamers and guarded by horsemen with bows and arrows, they were entertained with elaborate tea ceremonies, enquiries about their health, and explanations of ‘the emperor’s satisfaction with their arrival’. Macartney fumed quietly and fidgeted throughout the banquet until the viceroy suddenly announced that the embassy would only be granted an audience in Jehol, the emperor’s summer retreat, rather than in Beijing as previously planned. This sudden change in destination presented a major complication; many of the delicate instruments would be damaged on such a long overland journey to Jehol. But before Macartney could respond, the viceroy announced that he would be leaving the next day and planned to return only after six weeks.

Around this time, the central problem of the embassy became clear. For a foreigner to meet the emperor, or even receive an edict from him, he had to perform the ke-tou, or kow-tow. This ‘head-bumping ceremony’ consisted of first standing upright, then grovelling on the floor, banging one’s head against the ground three times, standing up, then going back down on all fours, banging the forehead again, and repeating the whole procedure three times so that nine head bumps were performed in all. It never occurred to the Chinese that Macartney might object. As far as they were concerned, the kow-tow was simply a formality by which a barbarian submitted to the perfection of the Celestial Empire in order to prepare himself for the benefits of civilization. Anyway, there was no precedent for doing anything else. But Macartney was having none of it; as representative of George III, he only agreed to go down on one knee. He only went down on two knees for the Almighty, so grovelling on all fours in front of some Oriental despot was entirely out of the question. So the two sides entered a phase of protracted negotiations. The Chinese addressed the matter obliquely – first by suggesting that the Englishmen might like to change their clothes, since the kow-tow would be easier to perform without garters and knee buckles. Macartney made a counterproposal: he would produce a portrait of George III and whatever ceremony he performed in front of the emperor, a mandarin of equivalent rank would perform in front of the portrait of the English king.

Meanwhile, Macartney had been informed that the characters on the banners on boats escorting the embassy had been quietly changed from – envoy bringing gifts – to – envoy paying tribute. But appearances were maintained; the embassy set off from the docks to the rousing sounds of a military band, while the Chinese responded with earsplitting hammering on copper gongs. After seven days on the canal, deafened by cicadas and tormented by mosquitoes, the embassy alighted at the port and set off overland for Beijing.

On 21 August 1793, a little short of a year after leaving Portsmouth, the embassy passed by the great corner watchtowers of the Imperial City. Guards of honour fired salvos from the ramparts while three thousand porters passed through the enormous double gateways carrying nearly six hundred packages, some so large they needed thirty-six men to carry them. They were followed by eighty-five wagons and thirty-nine handcarts filled with wine, beer, and other European produce. Eight pieces of artillery brought up the rear. Inside, the visitors were confronted by a human anthill. Brides went to their future husbands with squalling music and gongs; mourners dressed in white wailed over the departed. Wheelbarrows groaned under stacks of watermelons next to pots of live eels while, under the swooping eaves of the great gateways to the Imperial City, long lines of dromedaries brought coal from Tartary.

The embassy settled into the quarters near the Old Summer Palace, the Garden of Perfect Brightness, and awaited instructions to proceed to Jehol for the audience with the emperor. The accommodation was adequate, although one member of the expedition couldn’t help noticing the smell of ‘putrefying garlic and over-used blankets’.

By this time, Macartney had begun to realize that China had the most ritualized society on earth. Ceremonial rites formed one of the key foundations of Confucianism, and Confucianism underpinned the Chinese sense of identity. The Celestial bureaucracy consisted of six tribunals, equivalent to ministries, and the Tribunal of Rites enforced strict observation of court ritual. It also supervised the imperial examination system, which had first been conceived by the Han as a way of selecting and promoting civil servants. Introduced properly by the Sui in the sixth century, the exam system had been perfected four hundred years later under the Song and it had been in use for centuries by the time it was abolished by the Qing in 1905. The tribunal also controlled the movements of envoys and receipt of tribute.

Macartney, however, knew little of this as he haggled about the kow-tow. After several rounds of unsuccessful negotiations, he noticed that the old mandarin who had refused to board the ship at Zhoushan had vanished. Apparently he’d been replaced by another official. Macartney was delighted with the change, as he had heard that the new official was a cousin of the emperor and so assumed that he had more power at court. But there were hundreds of ‘cousins’; all it meant was that he was related to one of the emperor’s numerous concubines. In fact, the old mandarin had been a salt tax commissioner and his replacement had at one time been in charge of the Ming Tombs. Both were quite junior and hopelessly out of their depth. Meanwhile, behind the scenes, the vermillion brushstrokes moved across the pages – silently, alone, in secret – directing every move.

Finally, the embassy was allowed to travel to Jehol, where the emperor spent the summer, some hundred miles northeast of Beijing. They travelled through hills and patches of dense farmland, finally passing under the Great Wall and out into a fallow, wilder landscape. In places, the road was so steep that extra horses were needed to pull up the carts. The smooth imperial roadway was off-limits to the British; for eight days the horses limped and stumbled along the rocky pathways.

During an overnight stop, one of the mandarin officials asked to see the ‘admirable rarities brought for the Emperor’, explaining that he’d heard they were carrying fowl that ate coal, an elephant the size of a cat, and a ‘magic pillow’. All this, said the mandarin, was ‘surely true’ because ‘he had read about it in the newspapers’. Macartney noted in his diary a few days later that the interpreter ‘had amused us’ with a newspaper report of similar idiocies, including a ‘horse the size of a mouse’.

By the time that the embassy reached Jehol, many of the saddles had lost stirrups, but the atmosphere was jovial. Perhaps it was the clear mountain air, the almost Alpine scenery, or just the thrill of finally seeing the glazed yellow tiles and vermillion walls of the imperial palaces lying in the valley below. The British marched in a procession through the gates of Jehol to the strains of ‘God Save the King’ from a military band. While the aristocrats may have been smartly dressed, one of the lower members of the party recorded that ‘the rest of the company exhibited a very awkward appearance: some wore round hats, some cocked hats, and others straw hats: some were in whole boots, some in half boots, and others in shoes with coloured stockings. In second-hand coats and waistcoats, [we] did not enjoy even the appearance of shabby uniformity.’

The embassy was to remain in Jehol for nearly two weeks, from 8 to 21 September, during which time the British, still refusing to kow-tow, felt the atmosphere become hostile. Macartney had presented a copy of George III’s letter, but there was no response; a cold silence reigned. There was no word from the mandarins and nothing to do but wait.

On the day appointed for the imperial audience, Macartney was woken up at three in the morning. The emperor was to receive him in a large tent about three miles from their lodgings. No lamps were sent and they stumbled around in the dark, at one point finding themselves ‘intermingled with a cohort of pigs, asses and dogs, which broke our ranks and put us into irrecoverable confusion’. They arrived at four o’clock and were kept waiting for nearly three hours. A huge throng of people had assembled there – Tatar princes, viceroys, governors of cities and districts, mandarins of all types and ranks, soldiers, acrobats and musicians – several thousand people all waiting for the simultaneous appearance of the emperor and the morning sun. Eventually Emperor Qianlong arrived, preceded by ministers in yellow robes, and carried on an immense open chair by sixteen men. According to the ambassador, all but the British threw themselves to the ground. Qianlong was dressed in brown silk and wore a velvet cap with a single large pearl. Although he was more than eighty and hard of hearing, the British gained the brief impression of a man much younger in years before he quickly disappeared into the tent. Some time later, Macartney, his deputy and the boy translator were ushered inside.

It’s not clear exactly what happened next, and scholars still argue about it. Macartney insisted that instead of performing the kow-tow, he only went down on one knee before the emperor. But the boy noted that as the emperor passed the crowd on the way to the tent, ‘[we] bowed our heads to the ground’. One of the other members noted that ‘we paid our respect in the usual form of the country, by kneeling nine times to the ground’ – all of which sound suspiciously like a kow-tow. The boy Staunton records that, inside the tent, they went up to the emperor’s platform and ‘made the same ceremony as before’. Whatever really happened, Macartney presented the emperor with the letter and there was a short exchange of pleasantries before the emperor enquired whether anyone in the embassy could speak Mandarin. The boy was brought forward and spoke a few words, to the obvious delight of the emperor, who took a small purse off his belt and gave it to him. Next they were taken to an enormous banquet and returned to their residences before nightfall, having eaten too much and accomplished precisely nothing.

Following the audience, there was no response to George III’s letter. Whenever Macartney attempted to raise it with the mandarins, he was parried with a new round of gifts or treated to unwanted entertainments, including on one occasion a four-hour theatre performance. At the end of the play, the stage was filled with imitation dolphins, sea monsters, rocks and sponges before an enormous whale appeared and disgorged several tons of water from its mouth, which drained away through perforations in the floor. As soon as the play was finished, a circus appeared with jugglers on their backs using their feet to throw ceramic urns high into the air with children inside. Next there was an enormous firework display, which concluded ‘with a volcano or general discharge of suns and stars, squibs, bouncers, crackers, rockets, and grenadoes, which involved the gardens for above an hour after in a cloud of intolerable smoke’. Finally Qianlong personally sent yet more food, consisting of ‘a variety of refreshments, all of which, as coming from him, the etiquette of the court required us to partake of, although we had dined but a short time before’.

Several days later, the embassy was again woken well before dawn and escorted to a pavilion, where they were kept waiting for the usual three hours. This time the emperor never even appeared but instead sat behind an enormous screen. Muffled drums and bells were heard in the distance, before silence fell once more. Suddenly the whole court fell flat on their faces and a concealed orchestra erupted with the wails of strange stringed instruments and the deafening hammering of gongs. An immense red cloth was spread on the ground. At each of its four corners stood a man with a whip and, at the moment that the emperor was supposed to have mounted his throne, the cloth was whipped nine times in sets of three strokes each. Before they knew what was happening, the ceremony was over and everyone left. The embassy went back to the lodgings having no idea of what they had witnessed and it was never mentioned again.

On 21 September, still waiting for a response to the letter, the embassy took the same stony route back to Beijing. Just before leaving, the atmosphere darkened after a minor diplomatic incident when one of the men from the Royal Artillery died, ‘having eaten no less than forty apples at breakfast’. The mandarins were indignant; it was against regulations to die in one of the emperor’s palaces.

Macartney’s final meeting took place in the Forbidden City. Summoned once more without warning and crippled with rheumatism, he hauled himself out of bed and donned the required ceremonial dress, only to be kept waiting yet again for the customary three hours. Almost fainting with fatigue, he was finally asked to kow-tow to a letter addressed to George III that had been placed on a yellow chair in the gateway of the Hall of Supreme Harmony. He wasn’t allowed to read it for several days. When it was translated, it was heavily edited to avoid offending the king’s sensibilities. In fact, it was to be years before a full translation revealed the extent of the embassy’s failure. Every one of George III’s requests had been refused. Qianlong’s letter began:

We, by the Grace of Heaven, Emperor, instruct the King of England to take note of our charge.

Although your country, O King, lies in the far oceans, yet inclining your heart towards civilization, you have specially sent an envoy respectfully to present a state message, and sailing the seas, he has come to our court to kow-tow and present congratulations for the imperial birthday, and to present local products, thereby showing your sincerity. We have perused the text of your state message and the wording expresses your earnestness. From it your sincere humility and obedience can clearly be seen. This is admirable and we fully approve …

After this somewhat unpromising start, it went on to deal with the king’s main request:

As to what you have requested in your message, O King, namely to be allowed to send one of your subjects to reside in the Celestial Empire to look after your country’s trade, this does not conform to the Celestial Empire’s ceremonial system, and definitely cannot be done. There are fixed regulations of the Celestial Empire, and presumably you know them O King. Now, however, you want to send one of your subjects to reside at the capital. But he could neither behave like a Western Ocean man who comes to enter our service, nor could he be allowed to go in and out and to have regular correspondence, so it would really serve no purpose. Moreover the territories ruled by the Celestial Kingdom are vast and there are definite regulations for all the envoys of vassal states. If like you, they all beg to send someone to reside at the capital, how could we grant their request in every case? It would be absolutely impossible. How can we go so far as to change the regulations of the Celestial Empire, which are over a hundred years old, at the request of one man – of you, O King?

The emperor finished with an exclamation of withering condescension that dismissed all ideas of opening China to trade:

The Celestial Empire, ruling all within the four seas, simply concentrates on carrying out the affairs of government … we have never valued ingenious articles nor do we have the slightest need for your country’s manufactures … Hence, we have commanded your tribute envoys safely to return home. You, O King, should simply act in conformity with our wishes by strengthening your loyalty and swearing perpetual obedience so as to ensure that your country may share the blessings of peace.

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Дата выхода на Литрес:
29 июня 2019
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330 стр. 35 иллюстраций
ISBN:
9780007590261
Правообладатель:
HarperCollins

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