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Contents

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Cook’s notes

Introduction

Soups

First courses, snacks and drinks

Sauces and relishes

Salads and salad dressings

Side dishes

Vegetables and nuts

Pulses

Pasta

Grains and rice

Flans and pies

Cheese and eggs

Puddings

Baking

Bread and yeast cookery

Keep Reading

Acknowledgements

About the Author

About the Publisher

Cook’s notes

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT OVEN TEMPERATURES Ovens need to be preheated to the specified temperature. All the temperatures in this book are based on a conventional oven. If you’re using a fan-assisted oven, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adjusting the temperature – this usually means reducing it by 20°C (65°F), gas mark 1.

Butter The type of butter is specified only where it is critical, otherwise use salted or unsalted.

Cheese More and more cheeses are vegetarian, but there are some important ones that are not as they contain rennet (an animal product). When buying cheese always check that it’s vegetarian or choose a vegetarian alternative – try pecorino instead of Parmesan, Emmental instead of Gruyère, Danish Blue (or other blue cheeses marked ‘vegetarian’) instead of Roquefort.

Eggs They are medium size unless specified otherwise. I always use free-range organic eggs. Pregnant women, the elderly or frail, and very young children need to avoid eating recipes containing raw eggs.

Stock powder, cubes and concentrate There are some good ones available. Check the label and choose one containing natural ingredients.

Soy sauce Choose the most natural type you can find; traditionally brewed, without additives such as colouring or caramel. Dark Kikkoman (with the red top) is a reliable brand that’s widely available but try shoyu and wheat-free tamari; both are available from large supermarkets and health shops.

Wine and fortified wine As with cheese, wine is often not vegetarian or vegan so check the label (or ask the wine merchant for advice) when buying. When choosing sherry, pick the ‘fino’ variety, as this is vegetarian, and with port, buy the ‘crusted’ variety, named because of the sediment or ‘crust’ that forms in the bottle.

The Vegetarian Society, the Vegan Society and VIVA! (Vegetarian International Voice for Animals) are all excellent sources for information on products and ethical issues.

www.roseelliot.com

Introduction

When I wrote my Complete Vegetarian Cookbook, back in 1985, vegetarian and vegan food was not as popular or as mainstream as it is today. Nowadays, I look around my local supermarket and there is a wealth of fabulous fresh produce available. I can enjoy ingredients from around the world and if I am cooking for someone with a dietary requirement, there are loads of alternatives to pick from. In fact, following a healthy, nutritious and varied diet has never been easier. So, I hope my New Complete Vegetarian recipe book will help you make the most of the glorious range of ingredients we can all enjoy.

In this book you’ll find hundreds of delicious, easy-to-make vegetarian and vegan recipes. Here you’ll find my classic recipes that I turn to again and again, and often get asked for, plus many new ones to enjoy. You’ll also find information on cooking and preparing vegetables, fruits, pulses and nuts, plus symbols for those recipes that are vegan v and those that can be frozen . Many dishes include variations, so if you don’t like a particular ingredient, you can often replace it with something else. In fact, I would always encourage you to try out new dishes and have fun making the recipes your own.

So, if you’re one of my dear loyal readers from the past, I hope you will love this new edition as much as you did the first one; and if this is your first encounter with my Complete Vegetarian Cookbook, it’s so good to have you here and I hope you will find it an inspiring and practical friend in the kitchen. Whether you’re an old friend or a new one, I wish you many wonderful meals and health and happiness in your life and on your vegetarian journey.

Soups

Soup is one of the most satisfying things to make and eat, and it’s so varied and adaptable. It can be hot or chilled, smooth or chunky, thick or delicately light. Truly, there is a soup for all tastes and seasons.

In this chapter you’ll find a mouth-watering variety of soups, from broths such as miso soup to thick and chunky soups like lentil with garlic and cumin. There are plenty of quick-to-make soups, plus elegant ones for entertaining. You’ll also find a recipe for vegetarian stock. While using your own stock can give a beautiful flavour, it’s also fine to use bouillon powder, concentrate or cubes. You can also get excellent results using just water; I often do this when I want the pure taste of a particular vegetable to really sing through.

Many homemade soups freeze excellently, and you’ll find the freezer symbol against those suitable for this; just remember to allow time – several hours at room temperature or overnight – for the soup to defrost.

Easy vegetable stock v

Although you can now buy very acceptable vegetarian stock powder, which I often use for speed, nothing beats a good home-made stock. It’s easy to make – 10 minutes of simple preparation followed by an hour of slow simmering and you’re done. It keeps perfectly for a week in the fridge or for 3–6 months in the freezer. This is a good basic stock but you can also jazz it up by adding a few cloves of garlic, some peppercorns and any other herbs you fancy, such as bay leaves or thyme.

MAKES ABOUT 1.2 LITRES (2 PINTS)

1 onion, roughly sliced

1 stick of celery, roughly chopped

1 large carrot, roughly chopped

1 potato, roughly chopped

a few sprigs of parsley

2.5 litres (4 pints) water

Put the vegetables and parsley into a large saucepan and add the water.

Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down, cover and leave to simmer for 40 minutes.

Strain through a sieve. Cool, then keep in the fridge or freeze in suitable-sized containers.

Tip

Toss the vegetables in 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil and roast for 20–30 minutes at 200°C (400°F) gas mark 6, before proceeding as above, for a fuller flavour.

Artichoke soup

Smooth and creamy, this slips down your throat like velvet. Jerusalem artichokes are quite easy to peel if you use a potato peeler and are fairly ruthless about cutting off the little lumps. Put them into a bowl of cold water as they’re done, to preserve their colour.

SERVES 6

25g (1oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

900g (2lb) Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut into even-sized chunks

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

275ml (10fl oz) milk

sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Melt the butter in a large saucepan and add the onion. Cover the pan and fry gently for 5–7 minutes or until fairly soft but not browned, then add the artichokes, cover the pan again and cook for a further 2–3 minutes, stirring often.

Pour in the stock or water, bring to the boil, then turn the heat down, cover and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes or until the artichokes are soft.

Blend the soup very well, and pass it through a sieve if you want it really smooth, then add the cream if you’re using it, and enough milk to make the soup the consistency you like.

Season to taste with salt, pepper and freshly grated nutmeg. Reheat, and serve with some chopped chives or parsley sprinkled on top.

VARIATION

Artichoke soup with truffle oil

Truffle oil adds a deep, earthy flavour to this beautiful soup. Make as described and season with salt and pepper, but omitting the nutmeg and herbs. Pour into warm bowls and swirl each with a good teaspoon of truffle oil.

Asparagus soup

One of my favourite summer soups, this makes a wonderful starter for a special occasion and can also be served chilled in hot weather.

SERVES 4

1 onion, chopped

1 potato (about 50z (150g)), peeled and cubed

1 tbsp olive oil

500g (1lb 2oz) asparagus, washed

about 1 litre (1¾ pints) water

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or a stock cube

4 tbsp single cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large covered saucepan, fry the onion and potato cubes in the olive oil over a gentle heat. Fry for a few minutes, stirring now and again.

Break the tips off the asparagus stems by bending them until they snap. Place the tips to one side. Cut the stems into 2cm (1 in) pieces and add to the pan, along with half the water and the vegetable bouillon. Bring to the boil, then leave to simmer gently for about 30 minutes, until the asparagus is tender.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining water in another pan and cook the asparagus tips until tender, about 7 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking water.

Purée the soup thoroughly and, for an extra-smooth texture, pour it through a sieve, back into the rinsed-out saucepan. Add the cooked asparagus tips together with their cooking water and the cream. Season well with salt and pepper.

Reheat gently before serving; don’t let it boil.

Chilled avocado soup

This beautiful pale green, silky soup is very easy to make. Use avocados that are perfectly ripe but not overly so; they’re just right when they feel slightly soft all over when you squeeze them gently in the palm of your hand. Avoid making this soup in advance; it just needs time to chill in the fridge so that it keeps its bright colour.

SERVES 6

2 large ripe avocados

1 tbsp lemon juice

850ml (1½ pints) ice-cold skimmed milk

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives, to garnish

Halve, stone and peel the avocados and cut them into rough chunks.

Put the chunks into a blender or food processor with the lemon juice and milk and blend very thoroughly until the mixture is silky smooth.

Taste and season well with salt and pepper. Chill in the fridge, with the serving bowls too, if there’s room.

To serve, check the seasoning, as chilling can dull the flavour, then ladle the soup into the bowls and scatter some bright green chopped chives on top.

Beetroot soup

One of my all-time favourite soups, this is a stunning deep ruby-red soup that looks mouth-watering with its white topping of yoghurt or soured cream. It’s wonderful hot, but I particularly like to make it from new-season beetroot in the summer and serve it chilled. I think you’ll have gathered by now that I’m rather partial to chilled soup!

SERVES 4

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large potato (about 225g (8oz)) peeled and diced

1 tbsp olive oil

450g (1lb) cooked fresh beetroot (not in vinegar), peeled and diced

1.2 litres (2 pints) stock or water

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder, stock cube or concentrate

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp lemon juice

½ tsp grated lemon rind

TO GARNISH

thick natural Greek yoghurt, soured cream or crème fraîche

coarsely ground black pepper

Fry the onion gently in the oil in a fairly large saucepan, with a lid on the pan, for about 5 minutes, being careful not to let it brown. Add the potato, stir, then cover and cook gently for about 5 minutes more.

Add the beetroot and stir in the stock or water and the bouillon powder, stock cube or concentrate.

Bring to the boil then cover and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes or until the potatoes are soft.

Blend the soup, then return it to the saucepan and flavour with salt, pepper and the lemon juice and just a touch of the grated rind. Reheat gently and serve topped with a spoonful of yoghurt, soured cream or crème fraîche and a scattering of coarsely ground black pepper.

Borsch

You could serve this soup with the little curd cheese tarts on page 272 but it’s also great accompanied by chunks of rye or wholemeal bread and goat’s cheese.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, chopped

2 large carrots, diced

2 sticks of celery, sliced

125g (4oz) cabbage, chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

1 litre (1¾ pints) water or vegetable stock

400g can chopped tomatoes

450g (1lb) cooked beetroot (not in vinegar), peeled and diced

salt and freshly ground black pepper

sugar

TO GARNISH

150ml (5fl oz) soured cream or thick natural yoghurt (optional)

chopped fresh dill or chives (optional)

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onions, carrots, celery and cabbage, stir them in the oil so they glisten, then fry over a gentle heat for about 10 minutes, with the occasional stir.

Pour in the water or vegetable stock and the tomatoes, bring to the boil, cover and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes or until all the vegetables are tender.

Add the beetroot to the soup and season well with salt, pepper and a little sugar. Bring to the boil again and simmer gently for 3–4 minutes.

Serve the borsch as it is or blend it a little. If you like, top with soured cream or yoghurt and a scattering of chopped dill or chives.

Creamy butter bean soup with croûtons

This soup has a smooth, creamy texture that is complemented perfectly by its crunchy topping of golden-brown croûtons.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) dried butter beans, soaked

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 potato, peeled and diced

2 carrots, diced

2 sticks of celery, chopped

1.2ml (2 pints) water or unsalted stock

1 bouquet garni – a couple of sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf tied together

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

a few croûtons or cubes of crispy wholemeal toast, to serve

Drain and rinse the beans.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the vegetables and sauté for 7–8 minutes without browning, then add the butter beans, water or stock and the bouquet garni. Simmer gently, half covered, for about 1½ hours or until the butter beans are tender.

Remove the herbs and blend the soup (with the cream, if using). Season well with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

Reheat gently – don’t let the soup boil – and scatter over the crunchy golden croûtons or crisp wholemeal toast cubes at the last moment.

Butter bean and tomato soup v

I love to use dried butter beans for this, though I’ve given the option of canned, as dried beans are such a joy. You can buy them for practically nothing, keep them in the cupboard until you need them, then work some kitchen alchemy just by gently soaking and boiling, to produce a meal that’s deeply satisfying and full of natural goodness. If you are cooking your own beans, use the cooking water for this soup, with some vegetable bouillon powder for extra flavour.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, chopped

225g (8oz) dried butter beans, soaked, cooked until tender and drained, or 2 x 400g can butter beans, drained and rinsed

850ml (15 pints) water or unsalted vegetable stock

1 bay leaf

2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

sugar (optional)

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onions and fry over a gentle heat for about 10 minutes, until softened, but not browned.

Add the cooked butter beans, water or stock, bay leaf and tomatoes. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes.

Taste and season with salt, pepper and a little sugar if you think it needs it.

Blend a bit with a hand blender or leave the soup as it is. Serve sprinkled with the parsley.

Roasted butternut squash soup with chilli oil v

This is so easy to make – it’s pretty much a case of ‘roast and whiz‘. The butternut squash is cooked in the oven while you leisurely fry an onion and some garlic, then all you have to do is purée it with some vegetable stock, and there’s your beautiful golden soup.

SERVES 4-6

1 butternut squash

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing

1 onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

about 1.5 litres (2½ pints) vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4–6 tsp chilli oil, to serve

Set the oven to 190°C (375°F), gas mark 5.

Cut the butternut squash in half lengthwise. You might find it easier to cut it in half widthways, then cut each of these pieces in half. It doesn’t really matter how you do it, and there’s no need to remove the seeds at this point.

Put the pieces of squash in a roasting tin, brush the cut surfaces with oil and bake for about I hour, or until the squash is soft.

While the squash is roasting, heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a gentle heat, add the onion, cover and cook gently for about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a further 2 minutes.

Scoop out the flesh of the butternut squash, discarding the seeds. Pull off and discard the skin – it will come away easily. Purée the flesh and their juices, along with the onion and garlic.

Put the purée into a pan and stir in enough vegetable stock to make a consistency that’s pleasing to you. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Gently heat through, then serve with a swirl of chilli oil on top of each bowl.

VARIATION

Roasted butternut squash with goat’s cheese toasts

Make the soup as described. While it’s heating through, make the goat’s cheese toasts. Allow half a large slice of bread per serving. Toast the bread then top the toast with mashed soft-rind goat’s cheese and brown under a hot grill. Cut each piece into small squares and put these on top of the soup just before serving.

Carrot and thyme soup v

This is a light and refreshing soup that’s almost fat-free. It’s thin and smooth, so you can sip it from a large mug as you warm your hands and eat a sandwich. If you think you might prefer it a bit thicker, start with less water; you can always add more. I like this soup so much that I often make double this amount! You really do need high-quality bouillon powder for this, both for the flavour and the extra body that it gives.

SERVES 4

1 onion, chopped

2 sticks of celery, sliced

3 carrots, sliced

1 small potato (about 125g (4 oz)), peeled and diced

1 tsp dried thyme

1.2 litres (2 pints) water

4 tsp high-quality vegetable bouillon powder

salt and freshly ground black pepper chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional), to garnish

Put the onion, celery, carrots and potato into a large saucepan with the thyme, water and vegetable bouillon and bring to the boil.

Cover and simmer for 25–30 minutes or until the vegetables are very tender.

Blend or process until very smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste (you won’t need much salt because the bouillon powder is quite salty).

Serve in mugs, or in warm bowls, with some chopped parsley on top.

VARIATION

Carrot and coriander soup v

You can buy cartons of this everywhere but it’s so easy and economical to make your own. Simply follow the main recipe but using 1 teaspoon of crushed coriander seeds instead of the thyme. Crush your own seeds with a pestle and mortar and enjoy their sweet orangey aroma, or use the ready-ground type for speed. Add a small bunch of chopped fresh coriander after blending.

Carrot and ginger soup v

Use 2–3 teaspoons of grated fresh root ginger instead of the thyme for this soup, which is warming, fragrant and uplifting, but not spicy hot.

Carrot and lemon soup v

For this refreshing soup, just add 1 teaspoon of finely grated lemon rind and 2 teaspoons of juice after cooking; taste and add a little more if you like.

Cauliflower soup with almonds

Cauliflower makes a beautiful creamy soup with a delicate flavour. Try it with the herb bread, quick and easy focaccia or hot garlic bread .

SERVES 4

15g (½oz) butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 potato (about 150g (5oz))

½ fairly small cauliflower (about 225g (8oz)), broken into florets

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch or two of freshly grated nutmeg

2 tbsp flaked almonds, toasted to garnish

Melt the butter with the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion and fry for 5–7 minutes, covered, until it is beginning to soften but not brown.

Add the potato and cauliflower to the pan and cook for a further 2–3 minutes, stirring often. Be careful not to let them brown, as this will spoil the delicate flavour.

Pour in the stock or water and add the bouillon powder, bring to the boil, cover and leave to simmer over a gentle heat for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are soft.

Blend until very smooth and velvety. Stir in the cream, if you’re using it, and season well with salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper and grated nutmeg. Reheat, serve in warm bowls, and scatter over some crunchy golden flaked almonds.

Celery soup with lovage

The flavour of lovage is often likened to that of celery. It’s more pungent and aromatic, but goes well with celery and together they make a lovely soup. In a perfect world, where the seasons are observed in cooking, this would be made with the first of the English celery and the last of the lovage from the garden – it’s a perfect soup for a crisp autumn day. If you can’t get hold of any lovage, use some finely chopped celery leaves instead.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

outside stalks from 1 head of celery (about 450g (1 lb) in total), sliced

225g (8oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into even-sized chunks

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water and 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

2 tbsp chopped fresh lovage

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry for 5–7 minutes until soft but not browned. Add the celery and potatoes and cook for a further 2–3 minutes, stirring often.

Pour in the stock or water and add the bouillon powder. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes until the vegetables are very soft.

Blend well, but stop when it’s the consistency you like. Stir in the lovage, cream (if using) and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Reheat gently before serving.

Celery and tomato soup v

This is a quick soup with a refreshing flavour and a chunky texture. If you make it in a pressure cooker it can be on the table in less than 30 minutes from start to finish.

SERVES 4

3 onions, chopped

outside stalks from 1 head of celery, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

400g can chopped tomatoes

575ml (1 pint) water or vegetable stock

salt, sugar and freshly ground black pepper

a squeeze of lemon juice

Fry the onions and celery together in the oil without browning for 5–10 minutes.

Add the garlic, tomatoes and water or stock, and simmer for a good 30 minutes or until the celery is meltingly tender.

Taste and season with salt, pepper, sugar and a squeeze of lemon juice to taste.

Chilled cherry soup

No one finds it odd to start a meal with melon and a fruit soup is simply taking this a stage further! This black cherry soup looks so delicious with its topping of soured cream or yoghurt that I don’t think you’ll have much trouble persuading people to try it. Plump, perfectly ripe, deep-red fresh cherries are best eaten exactly as they are, without any adornment, so for this soup I use frozen, stoned black cherries.

SERVES 6

450g (1lb) frozen, stoned black cherries

850ml (1½ pints) water

2 tbsp arrowroot

caster sugar, to taste

150ml (5fl oz) dry red wine

a little lemon juice (optional)

150ml (5fl oz) carton of soured cream, to garnish

Put the cherries into a saucepan with the water, bring to the boil and simmer gently until tender. This only takes a few minutes.

Mix the arrowroot with a little cold water to make a smooth paste, then stir a ladleful of the hot cherry liquid into the arrowroot mixture, mix and add it to the saucepan. Simmer for 2–3 minutes or until slightly thickened.

Remove from the heat and leave to cool, then add 40–50g of sugar to make it slightly sweet but refreshing. Chill in the fridge.

Before serving, taste and add a little more sugar if necessary or a drop or two of lemon juice to sharpen the flavour slightly. Top each bowlful with a spoonful of soured cream.

Spanish chickpea soup with garlic and mint v

1 recommend using dried rather than canned chickpeas for this Spanish soup because the flavour depends on the quality of the few ingredients: chickpeas, fresh herbs, garlic and olive oil. The oil is used both in the soup and to fry the crispy croûtons.

SERVES 4

225g (8oz) dried chickpeas (high-quality, Spanish variety if possible)

2 garlic cloves, crushed

a handful of fresh mint, stalks removed

a small handful of parsley, stalks removed

6 tbsp olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 large slices of bread, cut into cubes

Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water, then drain, place in a large saucepan, cover generously with fresh water and simmer for about 1½ hours or until really tender. The time can vary, so go on cooking them until you can crush one easily between your fingers.

Drain the chickpeas and reserve the cooking liquid. Blend or process the chickpeas with 850ml (1½ pints) of their liquid (made up with extra water if necessary), the garlic, mint, parsley and half the olive oil until very smooth.

Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and reheat gently. While this is happening, fry the bread cubes in the remaining olive oil until golden brown.

Serve the croûtons in a bowl for people to add immediately before eating.

Chilled creamy cucumber soup

In contrast to the next recipe, this is a cooked cucumber soup. It’s light, delicate and very refreshing.

SERVES 4

1 large cucumber, peeled and diced

1 small onion or shallot, chopped

850ml (1½ pints) vegetable stock

2-3 sprigs of fresh mint

2 tsp arrowroot or cornflour

4 tbsp double cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

sprigs of fresh mint, to garnish

Put the cucumber and chopped onion or shallot into a large saucepan with the stock and sprigs of mint. Bring to the boil and cover, simmering for 10–15 minutes.

Purée the soup thoroughly and return to the pan. Blend the arrowroot or cornflour with the cream and stir into the soup.

Bring to the boil, stirring all the time, and cook for a few seconds until thickened slightly. (If you’re using arrowroot, don’t overcook it, because that will prevent the soup from thickening.) Season to taste.

Chill thoroughly, then serve in chilled bowls with a sprig of mint on top of each.

Bulgarian chilled cucumber soup with walnuts

Yoghurt, cucumber, walnuts and dill may sound like rather a strange mixture but it works, I promise you. The choice of yoghurt is up to you; thick strained Greek yoghurt gives the richest result but you could use whole milk or low-fat yoghurt if you want a lighter soup.

SERVES 4

1 large cucumber, peeled and cut into rough chunks

1 garlic clove, crushed

425ml (15fl oz) natural yoghurt

25g (1oz) shelled walnut pieces

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh dill, to garnish

Blend the cucumber with the garlic, yoghurt, walnuts, about half a teaspoon of salt and a grinding of pepper, to a fairly smooth purée.

Taste and add some more salt and pepper if you think it needs it, then pour into a bowl and chill thoroughly.

Serve in chilled bowls sprinkled with the chopped dill.

Dal soup v

This light, refreshing soup is perfect for serving before a rice and curry meal. You can use either yellow split peas or split red lentils.

SERVES 4

175g (6oz) yellow split peas or split red lentils

1 large onion, chopped

2 tbsp rapeseed oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tsp turmeric

2 tsp grated fresh root ginger 1 bay leaf

1 litre (1¾ pints) water

juice of ½ lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 slices of lemon, to garnish

Cover the split peas or split red lentils with water and leave them to soak for a few hours, then drain and rinse.

Fry the onion in the oil in a large saucepan for 5 minutes, then add the garlic, turmeric, ginger and bay leaf and fry for a further 5 minutes.

Stir in the split peas or lentils and the water. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for about 30 minutes or until the lentils or split peas are soft.

Remove the bay leaf and blend the soup. Add enough of the lemon juice to sharpen the soup and bring out the flavour. Season with salt and pepper.

Reheat gently and serve each bowl with a slice of lemon floating on top.

Fasolada v

This Greek bean soup is very filling and comforting, especially if you serve it with some country-style bread.

SERVES 4

6 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 sticks of celery, sliced

2 carrots, chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

225g (8oz) dried haricot beans, soaked, rinsed and drained

1 litre (1¾ pints) unsalted vegetable stock or water

1 tbsp tomato purée

2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

squeeze of lemon juice

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion, celery, carrots and garlic for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent them from sticking.

Add the drained beans, stock or water, tomato purée and parsley, and bring to the boil. Cover, reduce the heat and leave to simmer gently for about 1¼ hours or until the beans are tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and a little lemon juice.

Serve with lots of country-style bread. If there’s any soup left over, it’s even better the next day.

Flageolet soup

This soup makes the most of the delicate flavour of pale green flageolet beans, and the green leek helps to accentuate their natural green colour. Use dried not canned beans for this soup, to get the best results.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) flageolet beans, soaked overnight

1 small onion, chopped

1 leek, sliced

25g (1oz) butter

850ml (1½ pints) unsalted vegetable stock or water

4 tbsp double cream

1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley, plus extra to garnish

salt and freshly ground black pepper

fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Rinse and drain the beans.

Fry the onion and leek gently in the butter in a large saucepan, covered, for about 10 minutes.

Add the beans to the onion and leek, together with the stock or water. Simmer gently for about 1 hour or until the beans are tender.

Blend the soup thoroughly, with the cream and parsley, until very smooth. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Reheat gently without boiling, then scatter some fresh parsley over each bowlful before serving.

Gazpacho v

This unashamedly easy version of gazpacho is perfect for hot, lazy days. If you keep a can of tomatoes in the fridge in the summer you can rustle it up in a matter of moments. It’s nice served with some country-style bread or crunchy croûtons.

SERVES 6

1 large onion, cut into rough chunks

2 large garlic cloves, crushed

2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes in juice

4 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO SERVE

about 10cm (4in) cucumber, diced

1 small green or red pepper, deseeded and finely chopped

1 tbsp chopped fresh chives

1 tbsp chopped fresh mint

croûtons (made by frying cubes of 3 slices of bread in olive oil and cutting into small dice)

Purée the onion, garlic and tomatoes in a blender or food processor. Stir in the olive oil, vinegar, some salt and a grinding of pepper and blend again.

Pour into a bowl or jug and chill.

Just before serving, stir the cucumber, pepper and herbs into the soup, then pour into individual bowls and hand round the croûtons separately.

Hot and sour soup v

I’ve experimented with many versions of this soup to get it just right, and this one, with its mixture of fresh ingredients and spices preserved in sunflower oil, is my favourite. I love it; it’s light, but the heat of the chilli and the balance of flavours make it very satisfying and uplifting. It’s perfect before an Asian meal, such as chilli-braised tofu steaks or salt and pepper tofu. Don’t be put off by the ingredients list; everything can be bought at a large super-market and the soup is quick and easy to make.

SERVES 4

FOR THE STOCK

stalks from a large bunch of coriander

1.5 litres (2½ pints) water

1 onion, quartered

2 stalks of lemon grass, split in half

4 garlic cloves, halved, no need to peel

4 kaffir lime leaves

3 slices of dried galangal

3 dried red chillies

FOR THE SOUP

1 tbsp mild-flavoured olive oil

150g (5oz) enoki mushrooms, trimmed from their base

4 kaffir lime leaves, roughly torn

1–2 tsp lemon grass in sunflower oil

1–2 tsp galangal in sunflower oil

2 tsp tamarind in sunflower oil

1 tbsp tamari or shoyu soy sauce salt

4 tbsp chopped fresh coriander leaves

Put all the stock ingredients into a large saucepan, bring to the boil, then turn the heat down, cover and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes.

Remove from the heat and strain through a sieve into a large bowl, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible. Set aside for the moment, discarding the debris in the sieve. Rinse out and dry the saucepan.

Heat the oil in the saucepan, add the enoki mushrooms and lime leaves and cook for 1–2 minutes. Pour in the stock and stir in the lemon grass, galangal, tamarind, soy sauce and a little salt to taste. Bring the soup just to the boil, then remove from the heat, stir in the chopped coriander and serve.

Leek soup

Leek, potatoes, stock – this soup couldn’t be simpler but it hits the spot every time. You can blend it, keep it as it is or blend half of it and leave the rest to give some texture.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

450g (1lb) potatoes, peeled and diced

2 leeks, sliced

850ml (1½ pints) water or light vegetable stock

150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the potatoes and leeks and fry gently for about 5 minutes, stirring often and being careful not to let them brown.

Pour in the water or stock, bring to the boil then simmer, with a lid on the saucepan, for about 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Blend the soup, making it smooth or chunky, depending on your taste. Stir in the cream, if using, and season with salt and pepper.

Reheat gently without letting it boil. Ladle into warmed bowls and sprinkle over some chopped parsley.

Leek and carrot soup v

This pretty soup is pale golden and flecked with pieces of green leek, orange carrot and chopped fresh green herbs. It’s very cheering and uplifting on a winter’s day.

SERVES 4

2 large carrots, sliced

4 leeks, sliced

1 tbsp olive oil

850ml (1½ pints) vegetable stock or water

a pinch or two of freshly grated nutmeg

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tbsp chopped fresh chervil or flat-leaf parsley

In a large saucepan fry the carrots and leeks together in the oil for 10 minutes without browning.

Add the stock or water and cook gently for 30–40 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Blend, leaving some texture to the soup. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper and stir in the chopped chervil or parsley just before serving.

Chunky leek and potato soup

This is comfort food, and it’s quick and easy to make. I like it as it is or with some hot, buttery, crunchy garlic bread. It’s also delicious with a soft mound of grated, sharp-tasting cheese melted into it.

SERVES 4

15g (½oz) butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

900g (2lb) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunky pieces

700g (1½lb) leeks, sliced

575ml (1 pint) water

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

salt and freshly ground black pepper

chopped parsley (optional)

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry gently for 5 minutes, without browning.

Add the potatoes and leeks, stir and fry gently for a further 5 minutes, stirring often.

Pour in the water, stir in the bouillon powder and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, until the vegetables are just tender.

Mash some of the potatoes roughly, to thicken the soup. Check the seasoning, then serve with some chopped parsley sprinkled over, if you like.

VARIATION

Chunky mushroom and potato soup

For this version, leave out the leeks and use 225g (8oz) sliced chestnut mushrooms.

Classic lentil soup v

I think this smooth, golden soup is the most comforting of all soups and it couldn’t be easier to make. It was the first solid food I gave my youngest daughter when she was six months old and she still adores it – in fact, it’s a great favourite with all the family.

SERVES 4

1 large onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

225g (8oz) split red lentils

1 litre (1¾ pints) vegetable stock or water

1–2 tbsp lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion for about 5 minutes or until it’s lightly browned.

Add the lentils and stock or water and bring to the boil, then simmer for about 20 minutes or until the lentils are soft and golden.

Blend the soup, adding water to thin it if you wish. Add lemon juice to taste and season with salt and plenty of pepper. Reheat gently and serve.

VARIATION

Lentil soup with garlic and cumin v

Make as described, but shortly before serving, fry a chopped onion in a little olive oil with 2 crushed garlic cloves and 2 teaspoons of ground cumin. Stir into the soup just before serving.

Lentil soup with caramelised onions v

Make as described, and while the soup is cooking, slowly fry 2 finely sliced onions in a tablespoon of olive oil until deep golden brown and very soft. This will take at least 20 minutes. Serve each portion of soup with a glossy pile of caramelised onions on top, or stir through the soup before serving.

Lentil and mushroom soup

The lentils and mushrooms in this soup blend beautifully to make a deep, dark soup with a rich, earthy flavour. If they don’t know, people sometimes think they’re just eating mushroom soup, but of course the lentils give it extra body and are full of nourishment.

SERVES 4

1 large onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (5oz) butter

125g (4oz) mushrooms, chopped

125g (4oz) green or Puy lentils

850ml (1½ pints) water or unsalted vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or flakes of Parmesan-style cheese, to garnish

Fry the onion and garlic in the olive oil and butter in a large saucepan for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for a further 4–5 minutes.

Add the lentils and the water or stock. Simmer gently, with a lid on the saucepan, for about 45 minutes or until the lentils are tender.

Blend the soup if you want a smoother texture and thin it with a bit more water if you wish. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Reheat the soup and serve it in warm bowls topped with some chopped parsley or flakes of Parmesan-style cheese.

Lentil, tomato and basil soup v

Although it’s generally best to avoid cooking pulses with tomatoes because the acidity can prevent them from softening properly, split red lentils are an exception as they are so quick to cook. The result is a lovely tasty soup.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 stick of celery, chopped

125g (4oz) split red lentils, washed

400g can tomatoes

850ml (1½ pints) unsalted stock or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

squeeze of lemon juice

a few torn or shredded fresh basil leaves, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and celery and cook gently, covered, for 7–10 minutes without browning.

Add the lentils, tomatoes and stock or water, bring to the boil and simmer gently, with the pan half covered, for 25–30 minutes or until the lentils are tender. Blend to the consistency you like, then season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and perhaps a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the flavour.

Serve very hot, in warm bowls, scattered with the basil.

Lentil and vegetable soup v

Is there anything as satisfying, soothing and warming as a homemade lentil and vegetable soup filling the house with the scent of herbs? Plus, it’s so cheap and easy to make. It’s great as it is, or you could offer some flaked or grated strong cheese to stir into it and some chunks of country-style bread to mop up the juices.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

2 large carrots, cut into small dice

2 sticks of celery, thinly sliced

2 tomatoes, chopped

50g (2oz) mushrooms, chopped

75–125g (3–4oz) cabbage, shredded

125g (4 oz) dried green or Puy lentils, or a 400g can

1 litre (1¾ pints) unsalted stock

1 bouquet garni – a couple of sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf tied together

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and cook, covered, for 5 minutes, then stir in the garlic and all the other vegetables, cover and cook gently for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

Add the lentils, stock and the bouquet garni and bring to the boil, then cover and leave to simmer for about 1 hour or until the lentils are tender.

Remove the bouquet garni, stir in the chopped parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Lettuce soup

Why throw away the outer leaves of a lettuce that you’ve so carefully grown just because they’re too coarse for a salad? Make them into this fresh and summery soup instead.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

450g (1lb) potatoes, peeled and diced

outside leaves of 2–3 lettuces, chopped

1 litre (1¾ pints) water

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

salt, freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large saucepan and cook the onion and potato gently for 5 minutes with a lid on the pan, but don’t brown them.

Add the lettuce leaves and stir them for a minute or two until they’re glossy with the oil, then pour in the water or stock and bring to the boil. Simmer the soup gently, with a lid on the pan, for 15–20 minutes or until the potato is very tender.

Blend the soup and stir in the cream. Season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg and stir in the chopped chives.

Reheat and serve in warm bowls.

Cream of mushroom soup

My father was brilliant at finding field mushrooms – probably due to years of practice growing up on a farm in the Yorkshire Dales – and this is the soup that my mother used to make with his precious finds. It works very well with other types of mushrooms too.

SERVES 4

225g (8oz) mushrooms

1 small onion, quartered

1 bay leaf

1 garlic clove, sliced

a few parsley stalks

575ml (1 pint) vegetable stock

50g (2oz) butter

40g (1½oz) flour

about 575ml (1 pint) milk

salt and freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

a pinch of cayenne pepper

1 tbsp sherry (optional)

Wash the mushrooms and remove the stalks. If you’re using field mushrooms take off the skins too, but this isn’t necessary with cultivated mushrooms. Put the stalks (and skins if you’ve removed them) into a medium-sized saucepan together with the onion, bay leaf, garlic, parsley stalks and stock and bring to the boil, then leave to simmer for 10 minutes to extract the flavours. Strain the liquid into a measuring jug (discarding the stalks) and make the quantity up to 850ml (1½ pints) with the milk.

Melt 40g (1½noz) of the butter in the saucepan and stir in the flour. When it froths, pour in a quarter of the milk mixture and stir over a fairly high heat until it has thickened. Repeat the process with the rest of the milk in three more batches.

Chop or slice the mushrooms, fry them lightly in the remaining butter and add to the thickened milk.

Season with salt, pepper, a grating of nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne and the sherry if you’re using it. Cook gently for 3–4 minutes to give the flavours a chance to blend, then serve.

Vegetarian-style minestrone soup

A filling, main course soup that’s always great for feeding a crowd.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

3 onions, chopped

1 large carrot, diced

2 sticks of celery, sliced

2 large garlic cloves, crushed

1 large potato, peeled and cut into 1cm (½in) dice

a few leaves of cabbage, chopped

400g can chopped tomatoes

1 litre (1¾ pints) stock or water

bouquet garni

225g (8oz) dried haricot, borlotti or cannellini beans, cooked, or 2 x 400g cans

50g (2oz) macaroni or small pasta shapes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves, to garnish

handful of grated strongly flavoured cheese such as pecorino or Parmesan-style, to serve

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onions, carrot and celery, cover and cook gently for 5 minutes, then add the garlic and the other vegetables and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, stock or water and the bouquet garni. Bring to the boil, then boil for 10 minutes.

Add the drained cooked beans and the macaroni or pasta shapes and cook until the pasta is just tender, about 8-10 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper, and serve in warm bowls with torn fresh basil leaves sprinkled over the top. Hand the cheese round separately for people to help themselves.

Miso soup v

This soup is so quick and easy and also very soothing and nourishing. You can buy dried wakame seaweed from any good health-food shop and many supermarkets. You only need a little and what is left over will keep perfectly in a dry place for months. Good-quality, unpasterised miso is also widely available; you’ll find it a useful flavouring for many savoury dishes, but always remember to add it at the end of cooking to preserve the health-giving enzymes it contains.

SERVES 4

5cm (2in) piece of wakame seaweed

2 dried shiitake mushrooms, if available

1.2 litres (2 pints) water

4 spring onions, chopped

4 tsp brown rice miso

Soak the wakame and shiitake mushrooms in a cupful of the water for about 10 minutes, then drain, reserving the liquid.

Cut the wakame into shreds, discarding any hard bits, and slice the mushrooms. Put these into a large saucepan, along with their soaking water, the 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water, and the spring onions and simmer for 5–10 minutes.

Put the miso into a small bowl, add a ladleful of the soup and stir until blended, then tip the mixture back into the pan. Leave the pan over the heat for 2–3 minutes, without letting it boil, then serve.

French onion soup

You don’t need beef stock to make a delectable French onion soup. This vegetarian version fills the house with its aroma as it cooks and keeps everyone satisfied, I promise you.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

450g (1lb) onion, sliced

1 tbsp flour

850ml (1½ pints) water

1 tbsp high-quality bouillon powder

3 tbsp sherry

1 large garlic clove, crushed

4 tsp Dijon mustard

salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 slices of baguette

75–125g (3–4oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onions slowly for 15–20 minutes until they’re golden, stirring from time to time.

Add the flour and cook for a few seconds before stirring in the water, bouillon powder, sherry, garlic, mustard and some salt and pepper.

Bring to the boil, then leave to simmer gently, covered, for 30 minutes.

Just before the soup is ready, warm four heatproof soup bowls and lightly toast the baguette. Heat the grill to medium-high.

Check the consistency of the soup, adding a splash of boiling water if it needs to be a bit thinner, and adjust the seasoning to taste.

Put a slice of toasted baguette into each bowl and ladle the soup on top. Scatter with the grated cheese and place the bowls under the grill for a few minutes. Serve the soup immediately, bubbling and oozing with molten cheese.

Parsnip soup

This is one of the soups that I grew up with, and one I often made for guests when working at a retreat centre. It’s a beautiful soup that costs next to nothing to make.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

225g (8oz) parsnips, peeled and diced

1 carrot, sliced

1 potato, peeled and diced

1 onion, chopped

1 bay leaf

425ml (15fl oz) water

425ml (15fl oz)milk

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1–2 pinches of ground mace

dusting of paprika, to garnish

Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan, add the parsnips, carrot, potato and onion and fry over a gentle heat, with a lid on the pan, for 10 minutes.

Add the bay leaf, water and milk. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, then blend the soup.

Season with salt, pepper and mace. Serve with a dusting of paprika on top.

Soupe au pistou v

This delicious soup from southern France makes a filling main course with warm crusty bread.

SERVES 4

2 onions, chopped

100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil

2 carrots, chopped

2 potatoes, peeled and diced

225g (8oz) courgettes, sliced

125g (4oz) green beans, sliced

450g (1lb) tomatoes, skinned and chopped

225g (8oz) dried haricot beans, soaked, cooked and drained, or 2 x 400g cans

1.7 litres (3 pints) vegetable stock or water plus 4 tsp bouillon powder

50g (2oz) vermicelli

salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 garlic cloves, crushed

leaves from a bunch of basil

Fry the onions in 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan for 5 minutes. Add the carrots and potatoes and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the courgettes, green beans, tomatoes, haricot beans and the stock. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 20–30 minutes.

Add the vermicelli and cook for 8–10 minutes or until it’s tender. Season well.

While the soup is cooking, whiz together the remaining oil with the garlic and basil. Stir this fragrant purée into the soup and serve in warmed bowls.

Green pea soup with mint and cream

Frozen peas make a vivid green soup with a very smooth texture. It looks lovely swirled with cream and flecked with dark green chopped mint, and is good either hot or chilled.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

900g (2lb) frozen peas

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water

a few sprigs of thyme

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

2 tbsp chopped fresh mint

Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry gently for 5–7 minutes, with a lid on the pan, until fairly soft but not browned.

Add the peas, the stock or water and the thyme. Bring to the boil, then simmer for about 15 minutes or until the vegetables are soft.

Blend, and if you want it silky soft, make sure you do this thoroughly. For perfection, you could then pass it through a sieve, pushing through as much of the pea purée as you can, but this isn’t by any means essential – you’ll still have a great soup without this extra effort.

Season the soup and gently reheat, then ladle into bowls and top each with a good splash of cream and a scattering of mint.

Potato soup with fresh herbs

Although this is a simple soup, it always tastes good, with its smooth creamy texture and topping of fresh green herbs.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

450g (1lb) potatoes, peeled and diced

850ml (1½ pints) water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

2 tbsp chopped fresh herbs (such as chives, parsley or tarragon), to garnish

Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan. Add the onion and fry gently, with a lid on the pan, for 3–4 minutes. Add the potatoes, stir, then cover and cook gently for a further 5 minutes, without browning.

Pour in the water, bring to the boil, then simmer for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

Blend the soup, stir in the cream, then season with salt and pepper.

Reheat and serve sprinkled with the fresh herbs.

Pumpkin soup

Pumpkin makes a very delicious soup, golden in colour with a delicate yet distinctive flavour. It’s lovely sprinkled with chopped parsley and served with garlic bread.

SERVES 6

1 kg (2¼lb) pumpkin (weight includes skin and pips)

15g (½oz) butter

1 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, chopped

2 large garlic cloves, crushed

1 litre (1¾ pints) vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

150ml (5fl oz) single cream or crème fraîche

Cut the skin off the pumpkin, scoop out the seeds and cut the flesh into even-sized pieces.

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan, add the onions and cook, covered, for about 5 minutes, then add the garlic and pumpkin and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Pour in the stock, season and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer until the pumpkin is tender (about 20 minutes).

Blend to a glorious golden purée, then add the cream and a splash more water to thin it if necessary.

Reheat gently then ladle into bowls and serve.

Spinach soup

Spinach makes a beautiful deep green soup with a sharp, iron-y flavour that’s sweetened by a spoonful of cream.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 potato, peeled and chopped

450g (1lb) spinach leaves

850ml (1½ pints) vegetable stock or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

squeeze of lemon juice

4 tbsp single cream or crème fraîche, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onion and potato and fry gently without browning, with a lid on the pan, for 5–10 minutes.

Push the spinach into the pan and pour in the stock or water. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 15–20 minutes or until the potato is tender.

Blend well, then adjust the consistency of the soup with a little water if necessary and season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Reheat, then serve in warmed bowls with a spoonful of cream or crème fraîche on top of each.

Spinach and lentil soup v

Green lentils and spinach are natural companions and this soup is earthy, warming and satisfying.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

125g (4oz) green lentils

225g (8oz) spinach leaves, washed

1 litre (1¾ pints) unsalted vegetable stock or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2–3 tsp lemon juice

croûtons or thick yoghurt, to serve (optional)

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry for 10 minutes, with a lid on the pan, until the onion is almost tender and flecked with brown.

Stir in the garlic, lentils and spinach, then pour in the stock or water and bring to the boil. Simmer gently, with a lid on the pan, for about 45 minutes, until the lentils are soft.

Blend the soup, then reheat, season it with salt, freshly ground black pepper and lemon juice.

Serve just as it is, in deep, warm bowls, or top with a spoonful of crisp golden croûtons or thick Greek yoghurt.

Green split pea soup v

These green split peas, which you can get at health-food shops, make a pleasant change from the more usual yellow ones, or indeed from the colour of most dried beans, and they taste good too. As it’s a winter soup, I use dried herbs here; both marjoram and savory are useful to have in the store cupboard for adding depth of flavour, particularly to pulses.

SERVES 4

175g (6oz) green split peas

1.2 litres (2 pints) water

1 onion, chopped

2 potatoes, peeled and sliced

2 sticks of celery, chopped

2 small leeks, sliced

½ tsp dried savory or marjoram

salt and freshly ground black pepper

garlic butter, to serve (optional)

Put the split peas into a large saucepan with the water, all the vegetables and the savory or marjoram and bring to the boil.

Simmer gently until the split peas are tender – about 50 minutes. This soup can be served as it is, with chunky pieces of vegetables in it, or blended until completely smooth, or part-blended, the choice is yours. If necessary, add a little more water to bring it to the consistency you like.

Season with salt and pepper, reheat and serve in warmed bowls, topped with a piece of garlic butter (a little softened butter mashed with a crushed garlic clove) for extra flavour. Or you could go the whole hog and serve it with crisp, buttery garlic bread.

Chilled green split pea soup with mint

Here’s another way to use dried green split peas, and it couldn’t be more different from the previous one. I love this soup because it shows pulses in a different light altogether – all spruced up and elegant.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 stick of celery, chopped

8 sprigs of fresh mint

125g (4oz) green split peas

1 litre (1¾ pints) unsalted stock

a pinch of ground cloves

1 bay leaf

salt and freshly ground black pepper

single cream or crème fraîche, or mint sprigs, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and celery and fry gently, without browning, for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile remove the leaves from the stems of the mint and set aside. Add the stalks to the saucepan, together with the split peas, stock, ground cloves and bay leaf.

Bring to the boil, half covered with a lid, and simmer for about 40 minutes or until the split peas are tender.

Remove the bay leaf and mint stalks, add the mint leaves and blend until smooth and creamy, then season with salt and pepper.

Cool then chill the soup in the fridge. Check the seasoning again before serving, then ladle into individual bowls and top with a spoonful of crème fraîche or cream, or a fresh mint sprig, or both.

Yellow split pea soup v

Normally I don’t add any thickening to a lentil or split pea soup; they have enough body without. However, this soup is an exception. The split peas are cooked, puréed, then stirred into a roux of butter and flour, just like making a sauce. The result is a particularly smooth and creamy texture and buttery flavour.

SERVES 4-6

225g (8oz) yellow split peas

1.7 litres (3 pints) water or unsalted vegetable stock

25g (1oz) butter or pure vegetable margarine

1 large onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

25g (1oz) flour (I use fine wholemeal)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the split peas into a large saucepan with the liquid, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 40–50 minutes or until tender. You need a large pan for this because of the bubbling water. If this is a problem, try adding a little oil to the cooking water, or cook the peas using only 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and add the rest when you blend the soup.

Blend the split peas until smooth and transfer to a bowl.

Melt the butter in the rinsed-out saucepan and fry the onion until golden. Stir in the garlic and flour, cook for a minute or two, then gradually pour in the split pea purée, stirring until you have a smooth mixture.

Let the soup simmer for 5–10 minutes to cook the flour, then season and serve.

Sweetcorn soup

A pretty, pale golden soup with a hint of sweetness. You can blend it until it’s smooth, and then strain it too if you want it really delicate and silky; or half-blend it, leaving some pieces of sweetcorn for texture. You will need 2–3 sweetcorn cobs for this quantity of kernels, or you could use frozen kernels, which work well too.

SERVES 4

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp of olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

225g (8oz) sweetcorn kernels, frozen or cut from the cob

700ml (1¼ pints) water

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

a pinch or two of paprika, to taste, plus extra for garnishing

a squeeze of lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large saucepan, fry the onion in the oil and butter, covered, for 10 minutes. Don’t let the onion brown.

Add the sweetcorn and water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10–15 minutes.

Blend the soup until it is the texture you want, then stir in the cream, paprika and a little lemon juice, plus salt and pepper to taste.

Reheat gently, without boiling, and sprinkle a dusting of paprika pepper on top.

Tomato and fresh basil soup with cream

When it’s made in the summer with just-picked tomatoes and fragrant fresh basil, this has to be one of the best soups of all, but even canned tomatoes give a very acceptable result as long as you a choose good quality brands.

SERVES 4-6

1 tbsp olive oil

25g (½oz) butter

1 onion, chopped

350g (12oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into even-sized chunks

450g (1lb) tomatoes, chopped

1.2 litres (2 pints) light vegetable stock or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

sugar (optional)

TO GARNISH

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

2 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan and add the onion. Fry for 5–7 minutes, covered, until fairly soft but not browned.

Add the potatoes, stir, cover and cook for a further 5–10 minutes. Cover the pan but stir often to prevent sticking.

Add the tomatoes and the stock or water. Bring to the boil, then simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are very tender.

Blend thoroughly then pour the soup through a sieve into a clean saucepan to remove the seeds and skins of the tomatoes.

Taste and season with salt, pepper and a pinch or two of sugar if you think it needs it. Reheat and serve each bowl topped with a generous spoonful of cream and some basil.

Clear vegetable broth v

The better the stock, the better this soup will be. Homemade stock is great, if you have it, but if not, good-quality vegetable bouillon powder or stock concentrate will also work well.

SERVES 4

2 sticks of celery, chopped

2 onions, chopped

2 carrots, diced

other vegetables as available (e.g. a few French beans or a little cabbage)

2 tsp olive oil

1 tsp yeast extract

1 tsp tomato purée

1 bay leaf

850ml (1½ pints) vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives, to garnish

Fry the celery, onion and carrot together in the oil without browning for 5 minutes.

Add the beans, broken into short lengths, and the cabbage, shredded. Cook over a gentle heat for a further 5 minutes. Cover the pan but stir often.

Add the yeast extract, tomato purée, bay leaf and stock, bring to the boil and simmer for 20–30 minutes.

Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sprinkle with the chopped chives before serving.

VARIATION

Clear mushroom broth v

Mushrooms make a delightful broth. You can use any type – field, portobello, shiitake or delicate little button mushrooms. Leave out the carrots and other vegetables, and add 225g (8oz) sliced or chopped mushrooms to the onions and celery after they have been frying for 5 minutes. Pour in the stock, bring the boil and simmer for 10–15 minutes, then stir in 2 heaped tablespoons of chopped flat-leaf parsley before serving.

Creamy white bean soup with truffle oil v

This silky-smooth soup is very easy to prepare and a sure-fire hit with everyone. The swirl of truffle oil on the top makes it luxurious enough for a special occasion.

SERVES 4

2 x 400g cans haricot or cannellini beans or 200g (7oz) soaked and cooked until very tender

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or a stock cube

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

a little chopped fresh parsley

4 tsp truffle oil

Drain the beans, reserving the liquid if you are using ones you have cooked yourself.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion, cover with a lid and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until the onion is soft but not brown.

Stir in the garlic and cook for a few seconds, then add the drained beans. Make the drained liquid from the beans up to 850ml (1½ pints) with water, or just use water and add to the pan, along with the bouillon powder or stock cube. Bring to the boil, then simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.

Blend the soup thoroughly until it is really smooth and creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve in bowls with a little finely chopped parsley, a grinding of pepper and a swirl of truffle oil.

Winter vegetable soup

A pale golden soup, full of flavour, and it couldn’t be easier to make. Try a big, steaming bowl of it on a winter’s day, with chunks of crusty bread.

SERVES 4

1.2 litres (2 pints) water

2 fairly large carrots

2 onions

2 potatoes

1 swede (about 225g (8oz))

1 turnip (about 225g (8oz))

4 sticks of celery

15g (½oz) butter

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pour the water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil while you prepare the vegetables. Peel and cut them into fairly small chunks, then add them to the water, together with some salt, and simmer gently, covered, for about 30 minutes or until they’re tender.

Blend the soup to the smoothness you want, and stir in the butter. Season to taste, then reheat and serve.

Vichyssoise

This classic chilled summer soup is always popular.

SERVES 6

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

225g (8oz) potatoes, peeled and diced

700g (1½lb) leeks, sliced

575ml (1 pint) water

salt

575ml (1 pint) milk

freshly ground black pepper

150ml (5fl oz) single cream

2 tbsp chopped chives, to garnish

Fry the onion in the oil and butter for about 5 minutes in a large, covered saucepan but don’t let it brown.

Add the potatoes and leeks and stir until they’re coated glossy with the oil. Put the lid back on the pan, turn the heat right down and cook gently for a further 15 minutes, stirring from time to time and being careful not to let it brown.

Stir in the water and a little salt and bring to the boil, then cover and leave to simmer for 20–30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Purée the soup very thoroughly, adding some of the milk if you like, to make the process easier. Tip the soup into a bowl or jug – pouring it in through a sieve if you want the soup really velvety – and add the remaining milk. Taste and season the soup, then chill it.

Taste the soup again before serving, then spoon some cream over the top of each bowlful. Sprinkle with the chopped chives and serve.

Watercress soup

This is my family’s favourite soup and the one I get the most requests to make.

SERVES 4-6

900g (2lb) potatoes, peeled

3 tbsp olive oil

salt

2 litres (3 pints) light vegetable stock or water

vegetable bouillon powder or a stock cube

1 packet of fresh watercress

freshly ground black pepper

Slice the potatoes as thinly as you can; this is to help them soften quickly in the oil.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the potato slices with a sprinkling of salt, which also helps the softening process by drawing the water out of the potatoes. Cook very gently, covered, for 5–15 minutes, stirring often. The longer you can let them ‘sweat’ like this, the better the soup. They can get flecked with some gold, but don’t let them brown because that will spoil the flavour. Add 1–2 tablespoons of water if they start to stick.

Add three-quarters of the stock or water and the bouillon powder or stock cube. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for 5–15 minutes or until the potatoes are soft. The timing will depend on how long you sweated the potato for if you got it very tender, this stage will take hardly any time.

Reserve some small sprigs of watercress for garnishing (one for each bowl), and add the rest to the soup. Blend thoroughly to a smooth, bright green cream. Adjust the consistency with the remaining water to get it to the consistency you like.

Season with salt and pepper (you may not need much salt, if any). Reheat and serve with watercress leaves and a grinding of black pepper on each bowlful.

First courses, snacks and drinks

Quick meals to eat on the move, snacks to rustle up in an instant and light dishes to whet the appetite in anticipation of the main course – that’s what this chapter is about.

You’ll find some stunning first courses that are perfect for a special occasion meal or weekend dinner, followed by deliciously simple bruschetta and crostini, then plenty of lunch-box sandwiches and wraps for kids and adults alike. If you’re short on time, try the tasty savouries on toast and super-quick ciabatta or pitta pizzas. Finally, wash it all down with fresh peppermint tea or a nutritious smoothie.

First courses
Antipasto salad

A colourful Italian-style first course.

SERVES 6

225g (8oz) button mushrooms

2 tbsp olive oil

1 small red pepper

2 tsp wine or cider vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch of radishes

bunch of spring onions

2 heads of chicory

cucumber

6 tomatoes

4 hardboiled eggs

175g packet of chargrilled artichoke hearts, from the deli

175g packet of sliced roasted peppers, from the deli

12 black olives, or your favourite olives, to garnish

vinaigrette, to serve

Wash and slice the mushrooms; fry lightly in 1 tablespoon of the oil for 5 minutes, then leave to cool.

Slice the red pepper very thinly, discarding the seeds. Place on a flat dish and sprinkle with the remaining oil and wine or cider vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. If possible, leave for 1–2 hours to soften.

Wash and trim the radishes and spring onions; slice the chicory lengthways into quarters, and the cucumber, tomatoes and eggs into circles.

Arrange all the ingredients attractively on individual dishes or a large platter, garnish with olives and serve with vinaigrette.

Globe artichoke hollandaise

This is a delightful starter: cooked globe artichokes filled with hollandaise sauce. You pull off the leaves and dip the bases in the sauce, then enjoy the delicious heart. You’ll need finger bowls, and bowls in which to put the discarded leaves after you’ve sucked the flesh from them. It’s best to cook the artichokes ahead of time then gently reheat them just before serving.

SERVES 4

4 globe artichokes, stems removed

a squeeze of lemon juice

blender hollandaise, to serve

Cut the stalks off the artichokes so that they will sit level, then wash them thoroughly under the cold tap. You might like to trim the points off the leaves using scissors, so that they are less sharp; or you could leave them as they are.

Cook the artichokes in a large saucepan of boiling water, with a good squeeze of lemon juice added, for about 45 minutes, or until a leaf will pull off easily. Drain and rinse under cold water to cool quickly.

Open out the leaves to get to the centre of the artichoke, like opening out the petals of a flower. Pull off and discard the central purple cluster of tender leaves. Underneath you will find the fluffy ‘choke’, which is inedible, so you’ll need to scoop this out with a knife or pointed teaspoon, then rinse the artichoke under the cold tap.

Just before you want to serve the artichokes, reheat them in a microwave in a covered container on high for 4–6 minutes, or until heated through, or stand them in a shallow roasting tin or ovenproof dish, cover with foil and reheat in the oven preheated to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4 for about 15 minutes or until heated through.

Place each artichoke on a warm plate. Spoon the hollandaise sauce into the centre and serve at once.

Aubergine fritters with tomato sauce v

This is one of the simplest ways of preparing aubergines, but one of my favourites, and I think it’s tasty enough to serve as an extra course or light meal on its own.

SERVES 6

450g (1lb) aubergines

plain flour for coating

salt and freshly ground black pepper

olive oil, for shallow-frying

grated Parmesan-style cheese

lemon wedges

watercress

425ml (15fl oz) homemade tomato sauce, soured cream and herb sauce or tartare sauce, to serve

Wash the aubergines and remove the stems, then cut the aubergines into 6mm (¼in) slices and dip them in flour that has been seasoned with salt and pepper.

Just before you want to serve the aubergines, heat a little oil in a frying pan and fry the slices, a few at a time, on both sides, until the outside is crisp and the inside feels tender when pierced with the point of a sharp knife.

As the fritters are ready, put them in a roasting tin lined with crumpled kitchen paper and keep them warm under the grill or in a low oven until they are all ready.

Serve the fritters sprinkled with a little grated Parmesan-style cheese and garnished with wedges of lemon and sprigs of watercress. Serve the sauce separately.

Aubergine and tapenade rolls v

These rolls are easy to make and are wonderful as part of a selection of canapés or tapas, or arranged on individual plates with some yoghurt and green herb dressing, for a starter.

MAKES 24 OR 48 ROLLS

3 large aubergines

6–8 tbsp olive oil

1 quantity of tapenade

a sprig of flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Heat the grill.

Cut the stalk ends from the aubergines, then cut the aubergines lengthways into slices about 6mm (¼in) thick. (You will probably get 8–10 slices from each aubergine.)

Brush the slices lightly on both sides with oil and place side by side in a single layer on a grill pan; you may have to do them in batches. Grill for about 5 minutes or until pale brown on top, then turn them over and grill the other side until lightly browned and tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Leave to cool.

To make the rolls, spread one of the aubergine slices quite thinly with tapenade, then roll it up firmly like a Swiss roll. Place seam-side down on a serving plate. Continue in this way until you have done all of them. Serve them whole like this or cut each one in half, which makes them easier to eat if you’re serving them as canapés. Garnish parsley sprigs.

VARIATION

Aubergine and hummus rolls v

Use 250g (9oz) bought or homemade hummus instead of the tapenade and include a little chopped coriander in each roll. Garnish with extra coriander.

Aubergine and garlic cheese rolls v

Use 250g (9oz) dairy or vegan cream cheese with garlic and herbs instead of the tapenade. Garnish with parsley.

Avocado and grapefruit salad v

I love this combination of sharp citrus fruit and buttery avocado. The colours are very pretty and fresh-looking, too.

SERVES 6

2 grapefruit

2 oranges

2 avocado

lettuce

1 tbsp chopped mint

Using a serrated knife, and holding the fruit over a bowl, cut, peel and pith the grapefruit and oranges and slice out the segments.

Thinly peel, stone and slice the avocados, and add to the grapefruit and oranges. Pile onto lettuce leaves and serve chilled and sprinkled with chopped mint.

Melon with ginger v

Adding ginger works magic on melons that are not sweet and fragrant enough to be eaten on their own.

SERVES 6

1 honeydew melon

3 pieces of preserved stem ginger, chopped

6 tbsp of the syrup from the preserved ginger

If the melon is really tender (it can be sliced into with a spoon), cut it into six wedges, remove the seeds, spoon the chopped ginger and the syrup over each piece of melon, and serve.

For less-than-perfect melon, slice off the skin, remove the seeds, and cut the flesh into small pieces. Place in a mixing bowl, add the chopped ginger and syrup and stir together. Serve in individual bowls.

VARIATION

Melon with crème de menthe v

A speciality of a friend of mine and, I must admit, I’d never have thought of this combination, but it’s wonderful. Use a melon with white or pale green flesh – again, it’s a fantastic way of cheering up a melon that’s lacking in flavour. Cut the melon into wedges, pour 1–2 tablespoons of crème de menthe over each and garnish with a sprig of fresh mint if you have some.

Marinated mushrooms v

Serve these spicy, piquant mushrooms well chilled, with some bread to mop up the spicy juices.

SERVES 4

450g (1lb) baby button mushrooms

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp ground coriander

1 bay leaf

2 garlic cloves, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp lemon juice

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to serve

Wash the mushrooms, halving or quartering any larger ones, then fry them in the olive oil with the coriander, bay leaf and garlic for about 2 minutes, stirring all the time.

Put the mushrooms straight into a large bowl to prevent further cooking, then add the lemon juice and a grinding of black pepper. Cool, then chill the mixture.

Check the seasoning before serving the mushrooms on individual plates with a scattering of chopped parsley on top.

Pears with blue cheese and walnuts

The secret to this dish is using really ripe, sweet pears. I find it’s safest to buy hard pears up to a week in advance and let them ripen gently at room temperature. Small pears with a rounded shape work best – Comice are perfect.

SERVES 4

4 ripe sweet pears

juice of 1 lemon

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

50g (2oz) shelled walnuts pieces

125g (4oz) watercress

125–175g (4–6oz) Stilton or Danish Blue cheese, broken into pieces

Preheat the grill if you are toasting the walnuts. Peel the pears and cut into even-sized pieces, removing the core. Put into a bowl with the lemon juice, oil, some salt and a generous grinding of pepper, and mix together.

Spread the walnuts on a grill pan and toast under the hot grill for a few minutes until they smell wonderful, but be careful not to burn them. Or use them untoasted if you prefer.

Arrange the watercress on four plates. Spoon the pears on top and divide the dressing between the plates.

Tuck pieces of cheese among the pears and watercress, and scatter with the walnuts, breaking them up a bit in your fingers as you do so. If they’re still warm from the grill when you serve them, that’s even better.

Salsify with butter, parsley and lemon

Salsify – and their close relative, scorzonera – look like long, rather dirty dark roots when you see them in the shops, but when they’re peeled and cooked they have a delicious, delicate flavour.

SERVES 4

1kg (2 lb) salsify or scorzonera (unpeeled weight)

2 tbsp lemon juice

salt

25g (1oz) butter

freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Peel the roots, keeping them under cold water to preserve the colour. Cut them into 2.5cm (1in) pieces and put them straight into a bowl of cold water with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.

Bring 2.5cm (1in) of salted water to the boil in a large saucepan, add the roots and cook for about 10 minutes or until just tender.

Drain and add the butter, the remaining lemon juice, the parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Heat gently to melt the butter, then serve at once.

Salsify fritters

These delicate fritters make a perfect first course.

SERVES 4

700g (1 lb) salsify or scorzonera

3 tbsp red wine vinegar

1–2 tbsp chopped fresh herbs (e.g. parsley or dill)

salt and freshly ground pepper

125g (4oz) plain flour

1 tbsp olive oil

2 eggs, separated

150ml (5fl oz) water

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

lemon slices, to serve

Prepare and cook the salsify as described in the first two paragraphs of the previous recipe. Drain well, then sprinkle with the vinegar, herbs and some salt and pepper.

Mix together the flour, oil, seasoning, egg yolks and water to form a batter. Whisk the egg whites, then fold into the batter.

Heat enough oil to half fill a medium-sized saucepan to 190°C (375°F) (or when a little batter sizzles if dropped into the oil). Coat the salsify pieces in batter, then fry for about 4 minutes or until browned. Drain and serve with the lemon slices.

Salsify mayonnaise

Cooked and mixed with mayonnaise, salsify makes a lovely dish that I think of as the vegetarian equivalent to a light fish dish, though I can’t swear to this as I haven’t eaten fish since I was three years old!

SERVES 4

1kg (2 lb) salsify or scorzonera

2 tbsp lemon juice

3 tbsp mayonnaise

3 tbsp natural yoghurt

TO GARNISH

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

lemon slices

Peel and cook the salsify until tender. While still hot, add the lemon juice, mayonnaise and yoghurt. Leave to cool.

Serve on individual plates, garnished with the parsley and lemon slices.

Easy spring rolls v

These may seem fiddly, but actually they’re easy to make and delicious served with a sweet chilli dipping sauce.

MAKES 24 SPRING ROLLS

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

335g packet beansprouts

1 small pointed red pepper, deseeded and sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed

a thumb-sized piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated or finely chopped

head of Chinese leaves, shredded

3 tbsp dark soy sauce

salt

270g packet filo pastry (6 sheets, approximately 500mm × 240mm (20in × 9 in))

rapeseed or groundnut oil, for brushing

sweet chilli sauce, to serve

Fry the onion in the oil in a large saucepan for 5 minutes or until beginning to soften. Add the bean sprouts, red pepper, garlic, ginger and Chinese leaves, stir-fry for a further 5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Add the soy sauce and some salt to taste, then leave to cool.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6.

Cut each sheet of filo pastry in half right down the middle, and across, making 24 rectangles.

Take one rectangle of filo pastry. Put about a tablespoon of the vegetable mixture across the filo, about 1cm (½in) from the top. Fold over the top, and fold over the sides, then roll the pastry to make a spring roll shape.

Brush the spring roll with oil, or put some oil on a plate and dip the spring roll in this, to coat lightly. Place the spring roll on a baking sheet and repeat with the rest of the mixture until all the filo and (probably) all of the vegetable mixture is used.

Bake the spring rolls for about 10 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Serve with a chilli dipping sauce.

Sweet potato bhajis v

These crisp tasty morsels make a tempting starter or nibble. They’re great with mango chutney, tomato salsa or cucumber and coriander raita; or add some hot cooked rice to make a light main course.

MAKES 8 / SERVES 4 AS A STARTER, 2 AS A MAIN COURSE

350g (12oz) sweet potato

1 onion, very finely chopped

125g (4oz) chickpea flour

1 tsp dried red chilli flakes

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp salt

3 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Peel and grate the sweet potatoes, then put into a bowl and add the onion, chickpea flour, chilli flakes, baking powder, salt and coriander. Mix well; as you mix, the moisture from the vegetables will be drawn out and will bind everything together. Add a tablespoonful or so of water only if the chickpea flour remains dry.

Heat enough oil in a medium-sized saucepan for deep-frying. (The pan needs to be half full of oil.) When the oil reaches 180°C (350°F), or a cube of bread rises to the surface and turns golden brown in under 1 minute, put in 3–4 dessertspoons of the mixture, depending on the size of your pan. Don’t make the bhajis too big – they’re best when light and rather straggly and gorgeously crisp – and don’t crowd the pan, otherwise the oil will cool and the bhajis will stick together. Deep-fry the bhajis for about 4 minutes or until crisp, brown and cooked right through, then remove them with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Keep the bhajis warm in a low oven or under a warm grill while you cook the rest of the mixture.

VARIATION

Cabbage bhajis v

These are delicious; use 350g (12oz) shredded green cabbage instead of the sweet potatoes.

Onion bhajis v

Use 450g (1lb) red onions instead of the sweet potatoes, and omit the extra onion in the main recipe.

Tomatoes with horseradish cream

This is simple but delicious – sliced tomatoes topped with a piquant creamy horseradish dressing. The better the tomatoes, the better this dish will be.

SERVES 4

6 large firm tomatoes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

125g (4oz) ricotta cheese

2 tbsp natural yoghurt

2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

tsp red wine vinegar

2 tsp horseradish sauce or 1 tsp grated horseradish

chopped fresh chives, to garnish

You could skin the tomatoes if you wish: cover with boiling water for a minute, then drain and slip off the skins. Slice the tomatoes, with skins or without, into bite-sized pieces, divide between four plates and season with salt and pepper.

To make the topping, mix together the ricotta cheese, yoghurt, oil, vinegar and horseradish sauce until creamy. You could use a blender for this if you want it really smooth.

Season, then pour this mixture over the tomatoes and sprinkle over some chopped chives.

Stuffed vine leaves v

These are fun to make and delicious served as part of a selection of tapas, or arranged attractively on individual plates with some tzatziki or hummus and a few juicy black olives.

SERVES 4–6

36 fresh vine leaves (if available) or preserved vine leaves

225g (8oz) brown basmati rice

1 large onion, chopped

2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

2 fresh tomatoes, skinned and chopped

50g (2oz) pine nuts

50g (2oz) raisins

tsp cinnamon

2 garlic cloves, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tbsp olive oil

150ml (5fl oz) water

1–2 tbsp lemon juice

lemon wedges, to garnish

If you’re using fresh vine leaves, half fill a large saucepan with water and bring it to the boil. Trim the leaves and put into the boiling water, cover and simmer for 2 minutes. Then drain and run under cold water to refresh them. Drain well. With preserved vine leaves, simply drain and rinse well under the cold tap.

Half fill the saucepan with water; add the rice and boil for 10 minutes, then drain.

Mix together the rice, onion, parsley, tomatoes, pine kernels, raisins, cinnamon, garlic and seasoning. Place a spoonful of this filling on each leaf, fold the edges over and place the little bundles side by side in a frying pan. Mix together the oil and water and pour over the vine leaves. Sprinkle the lemon juice on top.

Cook, covered, over a very gentle heat for 2–2½ hours or until the rice and leaves are tender. Keep an eye on the water level and add a little more from time to time if necessary. Serve garnished with lemon wedges.

Aïoli with crudités

This garlic-flavoured mayonnaise from Provence, served with a gloriously colourful selection of whatever fresh vegetables are available, makes a wonderful first course or even a light meal. You need a blender or food processor to make this recipe.

SERVES 4–6

FOR THE CRUDITÉS

A selection of raw vegetables in bite-sized pieces; aim for maybe 4–5 different types of contrasting colours, such as: crunchy red radishes served whole with some of the green parts still attached; bright orange carrot cut into matchsticks; strips of deseeded red pepper; cauliflower florets; small very fresh mushrooms; spring onions, trimmed; pieces of crunchy fennel bulb; juicy cucumber in chunks; crisp leaves of chicory or sticks of celery; quarters of firm tomatoes, or cherry tomatoes.

FOR THE AÏOLI

1 egg

2–4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

tsp salt

tsp mustard powder

tsp pepper

2 tsp red wine vinegar

2 tsp lemon juice

200ml (7fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

Break the egg into the blender and add the garlic, salt, mustard, pepper, vinegar and lemon juice.

Blend at a medium speed for about 1 minute. Then turn the speed to high and gradually add the oil, drop by drop, through the top of the lid.

When about half the oil has been added and you hear the sound of the mixture change, you can add the oil more quickly in a thin stream.

If the mixture is very thick you can thin it by stirring in a little hot water. Serve the aïoli in a bowl with the crudités on the side.

VARIATION

Quick and easy aïoli

Nothing beats the real thing, but you can make a good quick aïoli using high-quality bought mayonnaise with crushed garlic mixed into it. Start with 1 crushed clove of garlic and add more to taste.

Light aïoli

If you want to serve aïoli but hesitate on account of all the calories it contains, you might like to use half mayonnaise and half natural yoghurt; or add some garlic to the ricotta mayonnaise and use that instead of full-fat mayonnaise.

Avocado and cream cheese dip v

While classic guacamole contains only avocado, tomatoes, coriander and chilli, this dip has a base of cream cheese – medium or low fat, whichever you choose – and a hint of garlic, Tabasco, lemon juice and wine vinegar. Both dips are delectable. Use vegan cream cheese if you prefer.

SERVES 4–6

250g (9oz) cream cheese

1 garlic clove, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tabasco sauce

2 large, ripe avocados

1 tbsp lemon juice

dash of red wine vinegar

sprinkling of paprika, to garnish

tortilla chips or melba toast, to serve

Mix together the cream cheese, garlic, some salt, pepper and a few drops of Tabasco.

Just before serving, peel and mash the avocados with the lemon juice. Mix with the ricotta. Check the seasoning, adding a dash of wine vinegar.

Spoon the dip onto a plate and sprinkle with paprika to give a nice touch of scarlet against the pale green. Serve with tortilla chips or crisp melba toast.

Baba ganoush v

In this Middle Eastern dip the intense, subtle flavour of the aubergine blends with the rich, earthy taste of the tahini (sesame cream) and the texture is substantial without being heavy. I love it, especially the smoky version, see opposite. It looks beautiful in a shallow bowl, its pale surface swirled with golden-green olive oil. Serve with warm pitta bread, thin crisp flatbread and colourful raw vegetables and olives.

SERVES 4

2 aubergines (about 450g (1lb))

2–3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 heaped tbsp tahini

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 large garlic clove, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

extra olive oil, to swirl

a scattering of toasted sesame seeds

a little chopped flat-leaf parsley

Halve the aubergines, removing the stems. Rub them lightly with a little of the olive oil and place on a baking sheet.

Bake at 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6 for about 25 minutes or until they can be pierced easily with the point of a sharp knife. Cool.

Chop the aubergine flesh as finely as you can, then mix it with all the other ingredients. Alternatively, blend the aubergine, remaining oil, the tahini, lemon juice and garlic together until fairly smooth. Season with salt and pepper, then chill in the fridge.

To serve, spoon the baba ganoush onto a plate or shallow dish, swirl some olive oil over the top and sprinkle with sesame seeds and chopped parsley.

VARIATION

Smoky baba ganoush v

Prick the aubergines in several places, then place under a very hot grill, or on an oven rack placed on top of a gas hob, and char all over until black on the outside and soft inside. This takes about 25–30 minutes (remember to open the kitchen windows!). Cool slightly then scrape off the skin and discard. Blend the aubergine flesh to a pale cream with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the tahini, lemon juice and garlic, a seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Chill in the fridge until required, then serve garnished as described.

Baba ganoush with cumin and pine nuts v

For a spicier version add a large pinch – or more, to taste – of ground cumin to the mixture, either the smoked or unsmoked version, and scatter with some toasted pine nuts along with the chopped parsley.

Baba ganoush with pomegranate v

Make as described, either smoked or unsmoked, and scatter the top with some fresh pomegrate seeds (you won’t need the whole pomegranate) and the chopped parsley.

Aubergine and yoghurt dip

For this rather different, light and creamy version, instead of the tahini and lemon juice, mix the aubergines with 150ml (5fl oz) thick Greek yoghurt and stir in a small bunch of fresh chopped herbs (chives, mint, coriander or dill). You can make this lighter by using low-fat yoghurt or you can increase the richness by adding soured cream.