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THE FACE LIFT MASSAGE
Rejuvenate your skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles
NARENDRA AND KUNDAN MEHTA

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First published as Indian Face Massage by Element, an imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers 2001 This edition 2004
Text copyright © Narendra and Kundan Mehta 2001, 2004
Copyright © HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd 2001, 2004
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A catalogue record for this book is
available from the British Library
Photography by Guy Hearn
Illustrations by Jane Spencer
Medical illustration by Peter Cox Associates
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dedication
This book is dedicated with love to my Uncle Gopaldas and Auntie Bhanuben and their family for their continuous love and support.
contents
cover
title page
copyright
dedication
introduction
1 the art and science of face lift massage
2 know your facial muscles
3 skin, lymph, and energy pathways
4 personal face exercises
5 face lift massage
6 recipes for natural beauty
7 beauty from within
8 managing your life
glossary
index
authors’ note
acknowledgements
about the publisher
introduction
ancient wisdom, modern beauty
With the passing of time, your lifestyle and personal experiences, both good and bad, can start to show on your face. From your early twenties onwards, every laugh and frown that you express begins to leave its cruel imprint in the form of tiny lines around your eyes and mouth. Add to this the effect of traffic pollution, sunshine vacations, the stresses and strains of modern life, too many late nights, and all the other abuses you’ve subjected your body to and, before you know it, you’re starting to look older than your years. The good news is – it doesn’t have to be like this.
We have devised a technique called face lift massage that can give you a natural face-lift. With the simple moves shown in this book, you can delay the aging process by means of facial massage, the stimulation of pressure points, natural beauty treatments, and other well-proven techniques that have their origins in ancient Indian traditions. This treatment not only helps to reverse many adverse effects to your skin but can go a long way to delaying or preventing further damage in the future. If that’s not enough, a face lift massage can leave you feeling relaxed, stress free, and at peace with the world. It sounds too good to be true – but it does work!
Step by step, this book will help you get to know your skin, the underlying tissues and the facial muscles, and show you what you can do to stay looking younger for longer. Drawing on the wisdom of Ayurvedic healers, who practice an Indian healthcare system dating back thousands of years, and combining this with other tried and tested therapies, such as yoga, energy balancing, and Ayurvedic massage, we will show you how to carry out a simple but effective facial care program that will leave you looking and feeling rejuvenated, energized, and ready for whatever life has in store.
As well as our unique massage system and skincare routine, we offer practical advice on healthy eating, getting a good night’s sleep, managing your stress levels, and regulating many other aspects of your lifestyle that can bring immediate – and lasting – benefits to your mind and body Be warned – this book can change your life!


CHAPTER 1 the art and science of face lift massage
what is facial rejuvenation?
Facial rejuvenation may sound like the stuff of science fiction but our system of beauty care draws on ancient wisdom and well-established techniques, combined with many modern approaches, to provide a truly “holistic” – or “whole body” – treatment.
This unique method requires no oils, equipment, surgery or drugs. All you need is a quiet, comfortable place to practice and a little time to spare. For some exercises, you’ll need a pair of willing hands to massage you, or you can learn how to help others to look younger. Why not practice with a friend, partner or family member so you can all enjoy the benefits?
Under the hands of an expert, you can usually see a difference after just one treatment. But even a novice can make a dramatic improvement by helping to free up the restrictions in the tissues that are the principal underlying cause of lines, wrinkles, and sagging flesh. The more you practice, the sooner you’ll see results, which in some cases can only be described as truly amazing. You’ll clearly see how the skin has been rejuvenated – it looks “lifted up” and also feels softer and more supple.
how does it work?
In this modern, stress-filled world your mind can be busier than the rest of your body. This is often reflected in your face. Hectic thoughts and pent-up emotions cause the muscles of the face, neck, shoulders, and head to tighten and constrict. This can lead to chronic aches and pain, especially around the eyes, jaw, neck or shoulders, and is a warning sign that your body’s natural energy is not flowing freely. Don’t be confused by the term “natural energy.” Many cultures believe that there are vital energy centers all over the body and that the flow of energy between these centers has a direct effect on a person’s health and well-being. A blockage in the energy flow causes symptoms such as pain and fatigue and usually leads to disease. By using massage to release such blockages you’ll find that not only has the discomfort gone but the energy now flows freely around your body, helping you to make better connections between your internal organ systems, thoughts, and emotions.

THE SEVEN CHAKRA POINTS: In India the body is said to contain seven main energy centers or chakras. If there is a blockage in any one of them it can cause an obstruction in the energy flow. This can build up and spiral to the head, leaving you feeling tense and imbalanced.
the magic of facial massage
For many Indian people, massage – including head massage and facial massage – is a daily part of their lives from the day they are born and is considered as important to health and beauty as diet and exercise. Facial massage is one of the most important elements of facial rejuvenation. It is like ironing with your fingers. Using repetitive finger movements along each wrinkle and also working on the underlying facial muscles, you can relieve tension in the muscles of the face, neck, and scalp, smoothing away lines and bringing elasticity and sheen back to the skin. You’re left looking and feeling younger and happier as the stresses and strains of the day simply float away. You just can’t help smiling after a facial massage because of the intense sense of contentment it induces.
Facial rejuvenation also works on the structure of the skin, to ease restrictions and lift up the face. Most of the skin is made up of connective tissue, which is formed from fibers of proteins such as collagen and elastin. These fibers weave together to form a flexible web-like structure. In younger tissues, the fibers slide past each other freely, giving suppleness and flexibility. But over time, toxic by-products build up in the skin, causing the fibers to lock together, so that the skin loses much of its mobility. Facial rejuvenation helps to release the tissues, gently allowing the connective tissue to regain its freedom and elasticity.
ancient theory – modern approach
The treatments we use in facial rejuvenation have mainly been drawn from ancient cultures but have been complemented by more modern methods. The main techniques we use come from Ayurveda. This ancient healing system has evolved over four thousand years and is one of the world’s oldest forms of health care. The word Ayurveda is derived from two roots in Sanskrit: “vida,” meaning “science” and “ayus,” meaning “life,” so it is usually translated as “the science of life.” It is one of the first holistic therapies as it is concerned with the health of the individual at all levels – physical, emotional, and spiritual. It treats the patient and not the illness and aims both to prevent disease and promote good health.
Ayurveda informs us that individuals have their own distinctive balance of three types of subtle energies or doshas. These are vata dosha, pitta dosha, and kapha dosha. Although they regulate thousands of different functions in the mind-body system, they have three basic functions: vata controls movement, pitta controls metabolism (body chemistry), and kapha controls structure.
Ayurveda teaches that every cell in the body must contain all three energies. The body needs vata to breathe, for blood to circulate, for food to pass through the digestive tract, and for nerve impulses to travel to and from the brain. Pitta processes food, air, and water, and kapha holds the cells together to form muscle, fat, and bone. All these energies need to be in harmony to promote physical, emotional, and spiritual well-being. In individuals there is usually one particular dosha that is dominant in the constitution, and this influences the person’s lifestyle. For example, Kapha types may need to eat certain foods, do particular exercises, and follow special routines in order to balance this dosha and so stay in good health.
Ayurveda places great emphasis on massage as being essential to health and beauty and people are advised to adopt it as a fundamental part of their daily routine. Just as we eat and sleep every day, so we should have a daily massage. Certain conditions can be treated by massage. For example, people who suffer from insomnia benefit from having a head and face massage, or massaging themselves, just before they go to bed. Massage also boosts the immune system by stimulating the production of white blood cells and antibodies. This strengthens bodily defence mechanisms and so increases resistance to viral and bacterial diseases. In India, babies are massaged from birth. The physical contact makes them feel nurtured and helps to ensure that they grow strong and healthy. Massage can work for you, too, helping you to look and feel revitalized, young, and beautiful.
beauty inside and out
Ayurveda shows us how to be beautiful inside and out and teaches that the two are related. Outer beauty is not just concerned with the way you look, but also includes posture, the way you move, and having a radiance that glows from within. Inner beauty relates to qualities such as your emotional state and mental abilities. The more you nurture yourself and learn to balance your inner and outer selves, the more insight you have on the world. Beauty evolves with age. As you get older, you learn to tap into a new source of beauty that comes from personal experience.
Ayurvedic facial massage gives amazing results. It relieves tension from areas that you had no idea were tense. After a massage you are left with a terrific feeling of well-being; your whole body feels totally relaxed and soothed. We owe a great deal to Ayurveda for the particular form of massage that we have developed. But we have also incorporated other therapies. Our system of facial massage includes other techniques that have now become separate modalities. These are yoga, polarity therapy, acupressure, and Swedish-style massage. Yoga, like Ayurveda, has its origins in ancient Hindu scriptures called the Vedas. It is a system for life that uses postures, special breathing methods, meditation, and other techniques to release and channel energy through the body. Polarity therapy stimulates and balances human energy fields – subtle patterns of electro-magnetic energy that surround the body. In polarity therapy, illness is viewed as a disturbance in these patterns and so health is restored by rebalancing the energy fields.
Reiki is a Japanese word meaning “universal life force energy”. The “ki” part of the word is the same as “prana” in Hindi and “qi” or “chi” in Chinese and is the term used to describe the form of energy that underlies everything in the universe. Reiki is a system for channeling universal energy to others for the purpose of healing and is similar to the chakra energy balancing used in Ayurveda. Compared with many Eastern healing systems, Reiki is relatively new as it was only developed just over a hundred years ago.
Acupressure is closely related to acupuncture but instead of applying needles, practitioners use tapping, pressing, and rubbing actions to stimulate and rebalance energy pathways in the body.
Swedish-style massage involves more rigorous stroking and twisting actions of the hands to stimulate the skin, underlying tissues, and muscles. This form of massage works on specific areas to improve the condition of the skin, lift up the face, and relax the whole body. By combining all of these disciplines, we have developed a form of massage that is perfectly tailored to tackle the stresses and strains of our modern, fast-paced, Western lives.
benefits of face lift massage
Face lift massage proves that you don’t need cosmetic surgery to look younger. You can work towards reversing the aging process by yourself, by getting a friend to help you, or by visiting a qualified therapist regularly – and there isn’t a snip or tuck to be seen! Nor is there a need to use any of the expensive cosmetics that claim to offer the elixir of youth in a bottle. Wrinkles and expression lines are reduced to give you a more vibrant and youthful appearance. Your skin becomes softer, complexion and skin tone improve, bagginess, sagginess, and puffiness are reduced, and you’ll notice the elasticity returning to your face.
These are the visible benefits. But you’ll also notice that you feel more relaxed as tension is released from facial muscles and the adjacent tissues, leaving your face feeling more mobile and your mental attitude much more positive. Headaches and other tension-related symptoms often disappear. In addition, as your body’s energy flow is improved, you are left with a sense of general well-being, confidence, and joy. Be prepared – you may well feel like hugging the people around you!

CHAPTER 2 know your facial muscles
the force behind the face
The muscles of the face and neck vary in size and shape from the small, delicate structures around the upper lip to the large and powerful muscles of the neck and jaw.
All the muscles of the body are made up of long cords known as muscle fibers. These, in turn, are formed from smaller threads called myofibrils, which comprise even smaller strands, or filaments. The filaments slide past each other to contract the muscle and so exert a force. Your facial muscles play an important role in the way you look. They nestle closely together, sometimes even overlapping, and are joined to the skin in such a way that when they contract they pull the face into shape. By acting in combination they create the myriad expressions you use to reveal your conscious and unconscious feelings and interact with the world around you.
All muscles maintain a slight tension at all times to hold your position against the force of gravity. This is called muscle tone. However, when you’re tense you tend to tighten the muscles for long periods, which impedes the flow of blood and starves them of oxygen and nutrients. For example, when driving a car in heavy traffic you tend to hunch over the wheel, developing tight, knotted muscles. Over time, the muscles become painfully tense and increasingly stiff. The best way to relax the muscles and restore their mobility is through massage and exercise. This is as true for the muscles of the face as it is for the rest of the body.
Facial muscles contract to reveal different expressions. If those expressions become habitual the muscles may stiffen up. Through massage you can release muscular tension and restore mobility to the face, so helping to restore your youthful features.
muscles of the face and neck
Before we go any further, you should get to know your face in more detail. It may help to find out about some of the muscles that lie underneath your skin and learn the names of a few of the major ones. The following are some of the most important muscles worked in facial massage.

muscles of the face and neck
Sternocleidomastoid – one of a pair of muscles on either side of the neck. It lifts your head when you’re lying down, bends and tilts your head, and rotates your head sideways towards your shoulder.
muscles around the eyes
Corrugator supercilii – draws the eyebrows together in a frown and wrinkles the forehead vertically.
Frontalis – raises the eyebrows to show surprise and wrinkles the forehead skin horizontally.
Orbicularis oculi – narrows the eyes to frown and squint and closes the eyelid to wink. This muscle is the underlying cause of crow’s feet.
Procerus – draws the eyebrows down and together.
muscles of the nose
Depressor septi – depresses the nostrils.
Levator labii superioris – flares the nostrils (and furrows the lips).
muscles of the mouth
Buccinator – compresses the cheeks to blow a kiss, whistle, and suck.
Depressor anguli oris – draws the corners of the mouth downwards and laterally to form a grimace.
Depressor labii inferioris – draws the lower lip downwards to pout.
Levator labii superioris – opens the lips, and raises and furrows the upper lip (and flares the nostrils).
Mentalis – protrudes the lower lip and wrinkles the chin to express doubt.
Orbicularis oris – closes the mouth and purses and protrudes the lips to kiss and whistle, and also pulls the lips against the teeth.
Platysma – draws the corner of the mouth downwards and backwards to show horror.
Risorius – draws the corner of the mouth outwards to grin.
Zygomaticus major and minor – pulls the corner of the mouth upwards and outwards to smile.
muscles of the jaw
Masseter – clenches the teeth and raises and closes the lower jaw tightly for chewing.
Temporalis – raises the lower jaw and presses it against the upper jaw to aid chewing.
get to know your face
The following exercises can help you to locate and identify some of the key muscles of the face.

Place two fingers between your eyebrows and frown in a disapproving manner. You’ll feel a combination of the Procerus, which lies just above the nose, and the Corrugator supercilii, located above the eyebrow.

Place a hand flat against your forehead and scrunch up your forehead. You’ll feel your hand being pulled up, mainly due to the contraction of the large Frontalis muscle. Working this muscle helps to increase oxygen and blood circulation through the forehead and around the eyes. This helps soften your brow, making you look more relaxed.

Place two fingers of both hands on either side of your head, slightly above and in front of your ears, and clench your teeth. You’ll feel the wide Temporalis muscle, responsible for closing your jaw and aiding chewing.

Close your eyes and gently place an index finger across the top of each eyelid. Keeping your eyes shut, widen your eyes as if trying to lift your eyelids. The delicate muscle you can feel is part of the Orbicularis Oculi, which encircles the eye.

Separate the index and middle fingers of one hand to make a V shape. Place one finger on either side of your nose and try closing your nostrils. You’ll feel the Compressor Naris.

Now try flaring your nostrils. This involves the Depressor Septi and Levator Labii superioris.

Purse your lips as if kissing and feel the circular muscle surrounding the mouth. This is the Orbicularis Oris.

Protrude your lower lip and wrinkle your chin as if sulking. The muscle that controls this expression is the Mentalis.

Place a finger slightly away from the corner of one side of your mouth and smile to that side. The muscles you can feel are the Zygomaticus major and minor.
express yourself
Now that you’ve become familiar with some of your facial muscles it’s time to look at how they work together to create certain expressions. This is not just a learning process but also very good exercise. It’s best to stand in front of a mirror so you can see how the muscles function. By doing these exercises regularly you’ll become familiar with your face, your skin will take on a healthy glow, and there will be a fresh vitality about you. As soon as you can feel the muscles, let go and assume the next expression.
Begin by assuming the most neutral expression possible. Breathe slowly, relax your facial muscles, and clear your mind.
Now imagine something fabulous has happened or that you’ve heard some great news. Let your face show the surprise. From this expression move on to the next one.
Pretend you’d been desperately hoping something would happen but it hasn’t. Let your face show your disappointment and sadness.
Think of some of your happiest memories and show your happiness.
We all get angry at times. Imagine someone has done something to make your blood boil. Let the mirror see how you feel.
Now have a good laugh at yourself- pull faces or do whatever you need to do to make yourself laugh. Now we’ve come full circle so assume a neutral expression again.
case study
Name: Rita
Age: 38
Occupation: Executive assistant
Rita first heard about the treatment from an article in a national newspaper and was interested because, quite naturally, she wanted to look as young as possible for as long as possible. As she believes prevention is better than cure, she started the therapy from a relatively young age to avoid wrinkles developing.
Rita was particularly concerned about the area around her eyes due to laughter lines and her tendency to pull the area when removing make-up. She was also worried about the lines on her forehead caused by her habitual expression.
After the first treatment Rita felt a sense of calm no other therapy had managed to achieve. She found the treatment very relaxing and felt great about being able to do something that she knew could keep her looking younger. Her face felt taut after each treatment but not in an uncomfortable way. After just one session her mother noticed something different about her but couldn’t quite put her finger on it. After an initial course of eight treatments Rita felt she looked younger and her confidence grew because she was doing something to improve herself.
She definitely recommends face lift massage, as it’s an excellent non-surgical way to look younger. Although she is 38 most people think she’s about 30!

CHAPTER 3 skin, lymph, and energy pathways
beauty is more than skin deep
Your face is made of many separate elements that fit together like a jigsaw to make up the face you see in the mirror. As you’ve already seen, the facial muscles play a vital part, and later on we will consider the role of the lymph system and also the energy pathways that, in all Eastern therapies, are considered crucial to your appearance and good health.
Nevertheless, the skin is also important and by learning how and why the skin changes with the passing years you’ll start to appreciate why it is necessary to take good care of this vital organ. In the process, you’ll discover new ways to delay, or reverse, the ravages of time and keep a youthful appearance for longer.
why skin is important
When you look at your reflection in the mirror usually the first thing you notice is the condition of your skin. You may have spent so long looking at your skin from a cosmetic point of view that you find it hard to think of the skin as a living organ. But the skin isn’t there just to cover you up and make you look good. It has many vital functions that protect you and keep you alive. It is also a pretty accurate indicator of your state of health. When you feel dreadful, your skin usually looks off color. Healthy-looking skin is a sign of good physical health – and good mental health, too. Once you study the skin in detail, you’ll begin to appreciate how complicated it is.
The skin is the body’s largest organ. Spread out, it would cover about two square metres. It is constantly renewing itself, producing fresh cells and shedding dead ones as, for example, your clothes brush against your skin or you dry yourself with a towel. It is said that people shed what amounts to the entire surface of their skin once a week – no wonder that 80 percent of household dust is made up of human skin! If dead cells are allowed to accumulate they give the skin a dull, scaly appearance. So this is just one reason why a regular skin care regime, including exfoliation (see page 123), is important.
the role of the skin
The skin is highly intricate. Each tiny section of skin is packed with cells, nerves, blood vessels, hairs, sensory cells, and oil and sweat glands. The skin varies in thickness from only 1/5 in (0.5mm) around the eyes to 1/4 in (6mm) or more on the soles of the feet, where it has to cope with the increased wear and tear of walking. It also thickens anywhere on the body where extra protection is needed, such as on the hands of manual workers. But the basic functions of the skin are the same wherever it is. These are: to regulate body temperature, protect against damage and disease, remove waste products, monitor your surroundings, and produce vitamin D.
temperature regulation
The skin plays a key role in regulating your temperature. If you get too hot, perhaps because you’ve just entered a warm environment or have been exercising hard, the blood vessels in the skin dilate to allow more blood to pass through them. This allows excess heat to escape from the surface of the body through convection and radiation. It is the increased flow of blood through the skin that makes you look flushed. As an extra measure against overheating, the sweat glands produce perspiration that seeps on to the surface of the skin through tiny pores. The perspiration absorbs heat as it evaporates and so helps to lower your temperature.
In cold weather, blood vessels in your skin contract to reduce the amount of blood flowing near the surface of your body and so conserve your heat. This is why some people look pale or almost blue when they’re cold. In addition, the hairs on the skin stand up and this traps a layer of warm air around the body to provide extra insulation. When this happens, small bumps called goose pimples appear on the skin as tiny muscles pull the hairs upright.
protection
The skin covers virtually the entire body, providing a barrier that protects the underlying tissues from dehydration, friction, physical and chemical damage, and invasion by harmful organisms. The skin is relatively waterproof, although some moisture is absorbed when you take a bath – this causes the skin to swell, producing the wrinkling we notice after a long soak. The skin also contains sebaceous glands that produce an oily substance called sebum. This keeps the skin supple and lubricated and helps protect against moisture loss. The skin still loses some moisture, however, especially in the dry atmosphere of a modern centrally heated home or office, which is why you should apply moisturizer regularly to keep the skin supple. Sweat glands have an important defensive role, too. Sweat is slightly acidic and combines with sebum to produce a protective layer called the acid mantle that guards against bacteria and fungi. Sweat also contains an enzyme, lysozyme, that can destroy bacteria. In response to sunlight, some skin cells produce a dark-brown pigment, melanin, which blocks damaging ultraviolet radiation.
waste removal
Sweat glands not only help to control body temperature, they also excrete water, salts, and organic waste products in the sweat, so helping to regulate the body’s salt and water levels and remove toxic substances. Regular exercise increases perspiration and so helps to flush out these toxins and prevent a harmful build-up.
environmental monitor
The skin is not only a barrier but also the main link between the body and the outside world, so its ability to monitor environmental conditions is of great importance. The skin houses nerve endings and receptors that detect stimuli related to temperature, touch, pressure, and damage. These nerve endings trigger impulses that travel to the central nervous system (CNS) to keep the brain informed about your surroundings, so you can make the appropriate response, such as pulling your hand away from a hot object. The connections between the skin and the nervous system are especially important during a massage. Even the lightest of touches is registered by the brain and has a direct and immediate influence on your state of mind and emotions; a pampering touch has a calming, soothing effect, while a firmer massage will leave you stimulated and invigorated.
production of vitamin d
Vitamin D is obtained from some foods, such as meat and fish, and is also formed in the body by the action of sunlight on the skin. This vitamin aids the absorption of calcium from the gut and so is needed for healthy teeth, bones, and nerves. Although you must protect the skin from the damaging effects of excessive ultraviolet radiation (see Chapter 8), regular moderate exposure to sunshine is vital to ensure an adequate intake of vitamin D.
skin structure
Bearing in mind just how important the skin is, it should come as no surprise to learn that this organ is not a shapeless mass of cells but has a complicated structure. The skin consists of two main layers; the outer one is the epidermis and the inner one is the dermis. The main function of the epidermis is to form a tough barrier against the outside world, while the dermis is a soft, thick cushion of connective tissue that lies directly below the epidermis and largely determines the way the skin looks. Both layers are constantly repairing and renewing themselves, but the dermis does so more slowly than the epidermis. Under the dermis is a layer of fat cells, known as adipose tissue or subcutaneous (below the skin) fat, which provides insulation and protective padding as well as a store of energy.
Just as the thickness of the skin varies slightly throughout the body, so does the structure. For example, you do not find hairs on the palms of the hands or the soles of the feet. Generally, though, the skin is pretty similar all over the body. If you examine the skin in more detail you can see what an amazing job it does.
The epidermis
The epidermis is sub-divided into four distinct layers: the basal, spinous, granular, and cornified layers.
Basal layer: Cells here are attached to the basement membrane, which separates the epidermis from the dermis. Basal cells continually divide and grow to produce new cells that gradually move up through the epidermal layers to the surface. The basal layer also contains special cells, called melanocytes, that produce the pigment melanin. Melanin not only acts as a sunscreen against ultraviolet light but it also determines normal skin color, being naturally more prevalent in darker-skinned people.
Spinous layer: Here, cells rising up from the basal layer start to flatten out and produce a tough protein, keratin, to protect the body from harm.
Granular layer: In this layer, the still-living cells continue to flatten and fill with keratin but then gradually lose their nuclei to become dead cells.
Cornified layer: This is the outermost layer of the epidermis where the scale-like cells are made up almost entirely of keratin. These cells are all dead and are constantly being worn away and replaced by cells from below.

The dermis
The dermis is thicker than the epidermis. It consists mainly of connective tissue, which is made up of fibers of the proteins collagen and elastin and a non-fibrous gelatin-like material called ground substance or extracellular matrix (ECM) that fills spaces between the fibers. Moving through the matrix and among the fibers are fibroblast cells that manufacture the protein fibers and weave them together to form a web-like structure. These fibers often occur in bundles, made up of many fibrils lying parallel to one another, and they are very strong. They are found in all types of connective tissue such as bone, cartilage, tendon, and ligament.
The dermis contains blood vessels, which supply oxygen and nutrients to the skin and remove waste products, as well as special skin structures such as sensory receptors, nerve endings, sweat glands, and hair follicles – the deep pits that house the hairs. Each hair grows from the papilla, an area at the bottom of the follicle. Like skin, hair is made up mostly of keratin and is dead, except at its base, where new hair is constantly being formed. Each hair grows for about four years and then falls out and a new period of hair growth begins. Each follicle is surrounded by nerve endings that respond to the movement of the hair and can detect, for example, a light touch or a gentle breeze.

why does your skin age?
As we have already said, the dermis is mainly comprised of connective tissue so, to understand what happens to our skin as we get older, we need to look at this complex material in more detail. Connective tissue gives protection and support and is the most widely distributed material in the body. Under a microscope, the connective tissue of the dermis looks like a loose tangle of fibers. The main fibers are made up of the structural protein collagen and have great strength and suppleness. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and makes up about 70 percent of connective tissue. Collagen fibers are very tough and highly resistant to pulling forces although they do allow plenty of flexibility in the tissue.
Mixed up with the bundles of collagen fibers are thinner, more elastic fibers formed from a protein called elastin that increases the strength and flexibility of the connective tissue. Elastin fibers are smaller than collagen fibers and make up 5 percent of the dermis. They can be stretched by up to 150 percent of their relaxed length without breaking, which allows people to put on weight or expand during pregnancy without their skin tearing. Together, the two types of fibers give structure and suppleness to the skin, keeping the flesh smooth and taut.
Collagen and elastin bundles run in specific directions in different parts of the body. To discover the direction, pinch an area of skin and see which way it folds most easily into wrinkles. After a certain age, no pinching may be necessary as the wrinkles remain. A cut in the skin that separates parallel bundles of collagen fibers without damaging them heals with a fine line. But any injury that damages the fiber bundles forms a broad scar.
Although skin ages at a constant rate, the most noticeable effects occur from the late forties onwards. There are several reasons for this. When we are young the collagen and elastin fibers have tremendous strength and flexibility, but this gradually decreases. Over time, the fibroblast cells that produce collagen and elastin start to decline, so reducing the number of fibers present. Those fibers that are left may break apart while others can develop cross-links that bind them and lock them into place to form a shapeless matted tangle. This blocks the flow of fluid through the dermis, reducing its suppleness and preventing the fibers stretching and moving so freely with the muscles of the face.
Elastin fibers normally spring back into place when they’ve been stretched, which maintains skin tone. But with age they lose some of their elasticity, thicken into clumps, and become frayed. Once these fibers have hardened and shrunk, the skin tends to sag. Years of muscle action such as smiling and frowning can become imprinted on the skin as creases and wrinkles, especially on the forehead and around the eyes and mouth.
Another cause of skin aging on the face is a stiffening of the gelatin-like ground substance. The chains of protein molecules that make up this material get bound together, further reducing the skin’s suppleness. As if that wasn’t enough, the connective tissue of the dermis can glue the skin to the tissues surrounding the muscles and bones. This makes the face look drawn in, tight, and pinched. Other effects also occur over time. The layer of fat just below the surface of the skin gets thinner, underlying muscles start to shrink, and the water content of the skin declines, giving the rather loose and dry texture of aging skin. In addition, dead skin cells may not be replaced so uniformly when they are shed, giving an uneven appearance to the outer skin.
These age-related changes can’t be prevented indefinitely. But there is much you can do to resist them. Facial exercises and massage (Chapters 4 & 5), coupled with a good skin care regime (Chapter 6), and sun protection (Chapter 8), help to keep the skin fibers supple for longer. A healthy diet (Chapter 7) ensures that the dermis gets all the nutrients it needs to build new fibers.
Underlying factors
Age-related changes to the skin are triggered by several factors including excessive sun exposure; a build-up of harmful atoms called free radicals; poor diet, such as excess sugar consumption; and, in women in later life, a fall in the level of the hormone oestrogen.
Sun exposure: Ultraviolet rays penetrate deep into the skin, drying the tissues and weakening the fibers, so accelerating their disintegration.
Free radicals: These are unstable and highly destructive atoms. They are a by-product of the normal chemical reactions in the cells that release energy and are also produced by smoking, sunbathing, fried foods, and industrial and traffic pollution. Although short-lived, free radicals destabilize the molecules around them, causing damage to living cells, especially in the skin, and leading to premature aging.
Excess sugar: This leads to sudden, steep rises in blood glucose levels that can disrupt glucose regulation systems. The excess glucose binds to proteins, in a process known as protein glycation, causing irreversible structural changes to the skin, such as the cross-linking of collagen fibers and other connective tissue damage associated with aging. Protein glycation is a major problem for diabetics, but also occurs in non-diabetics, underlining the importance of a healthy diet.
Oestrogen: In women, the disintegration of the skin fibers is accelerated in later life by a decline in oestrogen. Collagen in the skin can fall by 30 percent during the first 10 years after menopause.
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