The editors believe that the natural pride of the British public in the native flora and fauna, to which must be added concern for their conservation, is best fostered by maintaining a high standard of accuracy combined with clarity of exposition in presenting the results of modern scientific research.

Table of Contents

Cover Page

Title Page

Editors

Editor’s Preface

Picture Credits

Author’s Foreword and Acknowledgements

CHAPTER 1 Looking at Southern England’s Landscapes

CHAPTER 2 Time, Process Southern England’s Landscapes

CHAPTER 3 Movement of the Earth’s Surface from Within

CHAPTER 4 The Southwest Region

CHAPTER 5 The South Coast Region

CHAPTER 6 The Severn Valley Region

CHAPTER 7 London and the Thames Valley Region

CHAPTER 8 The East Anglia Region

CHAPTER 9 The Making of Southern England

Further Reading

Index

The New Naturalist Library

About the Author

About the Publisher

Editor’s Preface

L. DUDLEY STAMP’S

Britain’s Structure and Scenery

was one if the earliest books of The New Naturalist Library, published in 1946. Repeated . later editions in the period to 1986 testified to the success of his approach towards providing a geological framework for understanding Britain’s landscapes and natural history. He began his account in these words: ‘The wealth of a country’s fauna and fauna and flora is not to be measured by numbers of species alone. Its wealth lies rather in variety, and to a naturalist in the British Isles, the fascination of the native fauna and flora is in the great variety to be found in a small space.’ This variety has its foundation in the underlying geology and the landscapes which are derived from the geology, as Dudley Stamp described so well. For some time, it has been the ambition of the Editors to approach this subject again, since our understanding of the geology and associated landscape evolution has increased so very significantly in the last few decades. The author, Peter Friend, has had long experience of active field research in geology and landscape in many parts of the world, as well as having an intimate knowledge of the subject in the British Isles. He has been able to take full advantage of modern developments in computer mapping and colour printing, making it possible to present the subject in a novel fashion, with great clarity, following the New Naturalist tradition emphasising the importance of illustration. The individual treatment of regions and areas of Southern England brings to the fore the significance of geology and landscape for naturalists who have local or wider interests at heart, giving a necessary basis for relating biodiversity to geodiversity. These two aspects of natural history have come to be seen to be widely significant in understanding plant and animal distribution as well as the problems of conservation. The book is therefore a very ti mely addition to the New Naturalist Library.

Picture Credits

THE PHOTOGRAPHS and other illustrations that form such a key part of this book have come from many sources, and I am grateful to the following organisations and individuals for kindly allowing me to use their material:

Aerofilms (Figs 133, 232, 249, 252, 256, 258, 259, 261, 270, 280, 309, 312)

British Geological Survey (Figs 152, 284)

Cambridge News (Fig. 233)

Cambridge University Collection of Air Photographs (Figs 25, 118, 120, 243, 253, 282, 300, 310)

Cassini Publishing (Figs 26, 27)

Sylvia Cordaiy Photo Library (Fig. 141)

Robert Harding Picture Library (Fig. 313)

English Heritage (Figs 83, 308)

Landform Slides – Ken Gardner (Figs 17, 18, 43, 55, 70, 75, 76, 85, 88, 104, 161, 162, 165, 195)

Landform Slides – John L. Roberts (Fig. 69)

Last Refuge Ltd – Adrian Warren, Dae Sasitorn and Will Brett (Figs 41, 42, 46, 47, 53, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 63, 67, 68, 71, 72, 73, 74, 82, 86, 89, 90, 91, 101, 102, 103, 108, 110, 111, 112, 119, 121, 122, 125, 130, 132, 134, 135, 142, 144, 146, 148, 158, 163, 164, 169, 171, 175, 176, 185, 191, 192, 193, 194, 196, 216, 217, 218, 219, 220, 222, 254)

London Aerial Photo Library (Figs 23, 199, 205, 207, 235, 257, 277, 297, 298, 303, 314)

Norfolk Museums and Archaeology Service – Nick Arber (Fig. 16)

Norfolk Museums and Archaeology Service – Derek A. Edwards (Figs 1, 287, 293, 301, 302, 306, 307, 315)

Network Rail (Fig. 145)

Peter Oliver, Herefordshire and Worcestershire Heritage Trust (Fig. 172)

Mike Page (Fig. 311)

Science Photo Library (Fig. 2)

Sedgwick Museum, Cambridge (Fig. 239)

R. C. Selley – Petravin Press (Fig. 202)

Sheila Smart (Fig. 131)

Suffolk County Council (Fig. 255)

Victoria & Albert Museum (Fig. 250)

Illustrations that do not have a source credited in the caption are my own work, or that of the team working with me at the Department of Earth Sciences in Cambridge.

Author’s Foreword and Acknowledgements

MOST PEOPLE ENJOY SCENERY. In my case, an enthusiasm for exploring the countryside was learnt early on from my parents, and my career as a geologist has since allowed me to explore landscapes from the Arctic to tropical deserts and jungles. My hope is that this book will help more people to enjoy the countryside by bringing together some of the exciting recent discoveries about our Earth.

Landscapes are easy to look at, but difficult to describe in words. Recent developments in computer technology offer powerful ways of analysing and presenting landscapes using maps, diagrams and photographs, and it is this imagery that forms the core of this book. Developing the imagery has been the main role of a succession of enthusiastic helpers. Lucinda Edes, Emilie Galley, Liesbeth Renders and Helena Warrington brought their skills and enthusiasm to the early days of the project, working out what could be done best. James Sample has more recently further developed the methods of presentation, and has played a key role in bringing this project to fruition. All have helped to make the project enjoyable as well as productive.

The home for this project has been the Department of Earth Sciences at the University of Cambridge. I walked into the Department as a first-year undergraduate more than 50 years ago and, apart from a period in the Scott Polar Research Institute, I have been based here ever since. I have been teaching and exploring the scenery and geology of many parts of the world, including multiple visits to Spitsbergen, Greenland, Spain, India and Pakistan. This has been an exciting period to be working in geology, particularly in Cambridge, because many key advances have been achieved by the people working here. Apart from the great benefit of being part of this research environment, I have enjoyed the support of six successive Heads of Department and many other colleagues, especially our administrator Margaret Johnston and her team. It has been invaluable to have access to the excellent library run by Ruth Banger and Libby Tilley, and the patient computer support of Jun Aizawa, Aidan Foster, Pete Hill and Pete Wilkins.

I would also like to acknowledge my debt to the Cambridge college system, particularly my own college, Darwin. The College has provided me with the congenial friendship of many people from diverse backgrounds, and their skills have helped me to remain a generalist in my interests.

Any work of this sort on the British Isles owes a fundamental debt to the British Geological Survey (BGS), now based at Keyworth near Nottingham. The numerous Survey maps and reports on this country provide a remarkable source of carefully observed and objective information. The BGS has also readily provided advice and discussion of this project, and helped to determine the sort of coverage and level that would be best.

Many other people have made important contributions by providing ideas and information. These include: John R. L. Allen, Julian Andrews, Muriel Arber, Steve Boreham, Becky Briant, Keith Clayton, Tony Cox, Alan Dawn, Colin Forbes, Brian Funnell, Phillip Gibbard, Steve Jones, Gerald Lucy, Dan Mackenzie, Bob Markham, Charles Notcutt, Bernard O’Connor, Richard Preece, Graham Ward and Richard West.

This book is dedicated to the

Dr John C. Taylor Foundation,

which has provided the financial support for the project, allowing me to work with such a remarkable succession of talented young assistants. More than 40 years ago, John spent two summers exploring the geology of Spitsbergen with me, and we have remained friends ever since. I am extremely grateful for the help of his foundation during the writing of this book.

CHAPTER 1 Looking at Southern England’s Landscapes

FIRST APPROACHES

THE WORD

LANDSCAPE

has different meanings for different people, and the best way to illustrate the meaning I have adopted in this book is to look at an example. I have chosen a landscape in the northwest corner of Norfolk, part of our East Anglia Region (Fig. 1).

FIG 1.

Landscape of the northwest corner of Norfolk. (Copyright Norfolk Museums and Archaeology Service & Derek A. Edwards)

My approach is to focus first on the natural features that we can call landforms, because they have distinctive shapes that directly reflect the processes that formed them. In this Norfolk landscape, coastline landforms are clearly defined but are remarkably varied, ranging from sea cliffs to sandy beaches, gravel spits, wind-blown dunes and salt marshes. Inland, the main features in this photo are the groups of buildings that form the villages and the edge of the town of Hunstanton, and the pattern of fields and woods. All of these are man-made features and are best understood by following the work of

landscape historians.

My interest is primarily in the natural topography on which these man-made features have developed, because even in this rather flat landscape – and not clearly visible on the photograph – there are gentle hills, valleys and streams that I want to try to understand.

Scale and size in landscapes are important considerations that we will return to frequently. The landscapes that we shall be discussing are generally kilometres to tens of kilometres across, and they are often best examined from the air, or by using computer-based maps with exaggerated vertical scale.

Southern England contains many famous and well-loved natural landscapes, ranging from the Chalk Downs, with their unique flora and fauna, to the rocky promontories and bays of Cornwall, Devon and Dorset. In total topographic contrast, the Fens of East Anglia are regarded by some as representing an extreme absence of any scenery at all, but their remarkable flatness is of interest because they are the result of recent sea-level rise, and of engineering on a remarkable scale. These different landscapes are produced by a wide variety of events and processes; exploring these is the theme of this book.

As we have already seen, landscapes have often been extensively modified by people. The early clearance of woodland and the construction of field boundaries have profoundly changed the scenery and, more recently, the construction of buildings, roads, railways, canals and airports has almost completely covered some areas of Southern England. Figure 2 shows night-time lighting in cities, towns and oil platforms, giving a vivid impression of the present extent and distribution of the larger settlements. It is surprising how varied the population density is, even in crowded Britain. Using the figures for 2002, the population density of the UK overall is 244 people per square kilometre, but this conceals a huge variation: 8 people per square kilometre in the Highland Region of Scotland, 143 for Cornwall, 149 for Norfolk and an amazing 13,609 for Kensington and Chelsea in London.

The main focus of this book is the pattern of large scenic features that have resulted from natural episodes that predate human influence. It is not usually difficult to distinguish the natural from the man-made, and the study of the natural can often explain many aspects of the way our ancestors lived in the landscape. It is possible to uncover the reasons why people have chosen to settle with their families in certain places, why villages have grown by the clustering of houses in particular locations, and why some villages have then grown further and turned into towns and eventually cities. Even the roads, railways and airfields have clearly grown using the valley floors, river crossings, better-drained slopes and plateaus that are part of the natural scenery.

FIG 2.

Satellite image over Britain showing artificial lighting at night. (Copyright Planetary Visions Ltd/Science Photo Library)

There is a further enjoyment that people find in landscapes and scenery that is more difficult to understand. Is it just the physical challenge that causes people to walk and climb to the tops of hills, mountains and other viewpoints? Why do people enjoy the work of landscape painters and photographers? Why do so many tourists in cars choose to take ‘scenic’ excursions rather than the shortest routes, and why is the preservation of ‘unspoilt’ or wilderness areas now such a popular cause? It is difficult to understand the various emotions involved, and trying too hard to analyse them may be missing the point. So it seems best to hope simply that this book will help to satisfy some people’s curiosity, and at the same time add to their enjoyment of our natural landscapes.

MAPPING AND ANALYSING SOUTHERN ENGLAND

The detailed discussions of most of the rest of this book have involved dividing Southern England into a number of Areas that form the ‘building blocks’ for the coverage of Southern England (Fig. 3). Each Area is based on a double-page spread of the size used in many of the larger road atlases available for Britain. In this case I have used the Collins Road Atlas, Britain. This means that total coverage of Southern England is provided, and it is easy for the reader to navigate from place to place. At the beginning of each Area description, a location map of the Area and its neighbours is provided. Ordnance Survey (OS) National Grid References are provided for the edges of the Area, in km east and north of the arbitrary OS Grid origin some 80 km west of the Scilly Isles.

FIG 3.

Division of Southern England into Regions and Areas.

For convenient reference the Areas – numbered 1 to 16 – are grouped into five

Regions

. Each Region forms a chapter and starts with a general introduction:

CHAPTER

REGION

AREA

Chapter 4

Southwest

West Cornwall

East Cornwall and South Devon

North Devon and West Somerset

Chapter 5

South Coast

East Devon, Somerset and Dorset

Hampshire and the Isle of Wight

Sussex

East Sussex and Southeast Kent

Chapter 6

Severn Valley

Bristol

The Cotswolds and the Middle Severn

Chapter 7

London and the Thames Valley

The Cots

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